($16, Frederick Wildman):  Hugel is one of the undisputed leaders in Alsace so it’s not surprising that their Pinot Blanc–a wine that can be innocuous–is so full of character.  Delicate notes of white flowers grab your attention, but it’s the bracing character of this unoaked wine that keeps it.  It’s an excellent choice for oysters, simply done seafood, or sushi. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 16, 2010