($43, Kobrand): Originally founded in 1647 in Navarra, Bodegas Julián Chivite expanded into Rioja in 1998 when they purchased the Conde de la Salceda estate.  This, their top wine, is aged in small French barriques for 18 months and even at 7years of age, the oak influence is still quite prominent.  A classic Rioja blend of Tempranillo (95%) and Graciano, this big, slightly spicy wine falls clearly into the modern style of Rioja with its very ripe extracted black fruit elements.  Tannins are supple and well integrated, but this ‘wine on steroids’ cries for hearty beef, lamb or other full-flavored dishes. 87 Michael Apstein Sep 2, 2008