($30): When Domaine Drouhin Oregon started in 1988, they focused on Pinot Noir, not making commercial quantities of their Chardonnay until the 1996 vintage. To my mind, their Chardonnay has gotten better every year. The 2004 is tightly wound and shows its true glory after some time in the glass. Not an overt “California: style, but more — what a surprise — Burgundian, with minerality and lively acidity. Its layers of flavor make you come back for more. 93 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2006