($42): In my experience, it’s rare for a wine made from mountain grown fruit to have this kind of weight and elegance. But Atlas Peak’s winemaker, Darren Proscal, and its viticulturist, Tony Fernandez, Jr., have pulled it off with their 2003 Cabernet. The supple tannins support — as opposed to overwhelm — the impressive black cherry-like flavors, herbs and minerals. The judicious use of oak brings it all together. Unlike many mountain Cabernets that need years to resolve the tannins, you will enjoy this one now. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2006