($30, Folio Fine Wine Partners): The Fernández family, headed by patriarch Alejandro who is best known for his Tinto Pesquera, a wine that was instrumental in the formation of the Ribera del Duero DO, has expanded to the La Mancha area. Made entirely from Airén and the only white wine in the Fernández portfolio, Alejairén is bold, expressing ripe stone fruit-like flavors. … Read more
Category Archives: Spain
El Vínculo, La Mancha DO (Spain) Crianza 2013
($19, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Made from Cencibel, a thicker-skinned type of Tempranillo, this Crianza comes from the Fernández family’s outpost in La Mancha. It conveys a combination of hearty dark fruit flavors mixed with the spice characteristic of aging in American oak barrels, where it spent 18 months. … Read more
Viña Eguía, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2014
($19, Quintessential Wines): Here’s yet another example of why Rioja can be such a treasure trove of value-paced wines. Viña Eguía’s Reserva, made entirely from Tempranillo, provides a lovely balance of vibrant red fruit-like flavors and savory nuances. The modest 13.5 percent-stated alcohol belies the weight and depth of the wine. … Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2014
($26): This mid-weight red is a spectacular bargain, which should not come as a surprise because Marqués de Murrieta is one of the leaders in the Rioja. A blend of mostly Tempranillo (84%) with Graciano, Mazuelo and Garnacha, it manages to delivers both fruity and savory elements enrobed by fine tannins. … Read more
Bodegas Terras Gauda, O Rosal, Rias Baixas (Spain) 2017
($21): O Rosal, named for a sub-region of Rias Baixas, is the flagship of Bodegas Terras Gauda, one of the region’s top producers, according to their website. The addition of Caiño and Loureiro to the blend adds roundness and complexity to the cutting spiciness that Albariño, the predominant grape of the region, brings to the table. … Read more
Luis Anxo Rodriguez Vázquez, Ribeiro (Galicia, Spain) “Eidos Ermos” 2016
($16, Skurnik Wines): Luis Anxo Rodriguez Vázquez has at least two things working against him, his size and location. He has just over 12 acres spread over 100 tiny plots in the rather obscure DO of Ribeiro. What he has going for him is the ability to make excellent wine. … Read more
Llopart, Cava (Spain) Brut Nature Reserva 2015
($23): Llopart consistently gets it right because they are one of the oldest producers of Cava. The Brut Nature category requires the best grapes because regulations require that sugar, which could potentially mask flaws, may not be added during dosage. Unsurprisingly, Llopart got it right with this 2015 Reserva. … Read more
Bohigas, Cava (Spain) “Rosat” NV
($13, Polaner Selections): It can be difficult to find a wine to accompany Vietnamese, indeed most Asian fare, with its plethora of flavors. This Rosé Cava worked splendidly with the stellar food at the Hanoi House in New York. It was gentle enough to work as a celebratory pre-dinner drink and firm enough to cut through the spice and lemongrass. … Read more
Segura Viudas, Cava (Catalonia, Spain) “Aria” Brut Nature NV
($14, DM Vineyards & Partners): This fresh and clean bubbly has a firm, but not aggressive, spine of acidity that balances its floral fruitiness. A welcome hint of bitterness in the finish and its overall weight makes it a good choice for a variety of food — tapas or sushi anyone. … Read more
Raventós I Blanc, Vino Espumoso de Calidad (Penedes, Spain) “de Nit” Brut 2015
($23, Skurnik): Raventós I Blanc, one of the shining stars of Spanish sparkling wine, left the Cava DO in 2013 and is spearheading a project to create a new one, Conca del Riu Anoia, based on the Anoia River Valley. They felt the regulations governing Cava were weak and wanted stricter ones for producing higher quality sparkling wines. … Read more
Raventós I Blanc, Vino Espumoso de Calidad (Penedes, Spain) “Textures de Pedra” 2012
($41, Skurnik): A blend of three red grapes — so technically a Blanc de Noirs — this white wine is an outstanding sparkler and shows that the Champagne region does not hold a monopoly on high-quality bubbly. Creamy and persistent, it demonstrates power and elegance. … Read more
La Rioja Alta, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Viña Ardanza” 2008
($32): Where else but Spain, and specifically Rioja, do you find a nine year old wine as the current release? And look at the price. Not to mention that La Rioja Alta is one of the best producers in Rioja. Here’s a chance for consumers to taste the magical transformation of youthful fruitiness in a wine to intriguing and hard to define non-fruit flavors of leather and earth.… Read more
Arínzano, Pago del Arínzano (Spain) “Hacienda di Arínzano” 2011
($19, Stoli Group USA): The Vinos de Pago category sits at the pinnacle of Spain’s official wine hierarchy. A Pago is basically a single estate that has its on Denominacion Oregin. Arínzano was northern Spain’s first estate to be awarded Vinos de Pago status. … Read more
Finca San Blas, Utiel-Requena DO (Valencia, Spain) “Lomalta” 2014
($14): The Denominación de Origen (DO) of Utiel-Requena in eastern Spain has traditionally been known for bulk wine from the prolific Bobal grape. Slowly, producers are changing the image. This robust red, a blend of Merlot, Bobal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo and Syrah, has remarkably mild tannins, which makes it a good choice for hearty fare, even barbeque. … Read more
Codorníu, Cava (Penedes, Spain) Gran Reserva Brut “Jaume” 2012
($60): It should come as no surprise that Codorníu, still a leader in Cava production and the company essentially responsible for creating the category, should produce a show-stopping wine. In this Gran Reserva, one of their top bottlings, they use an unusual blend — at least for Cava — of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Xarel-lo. … Read more
Arínzano, Pago del Arínzano (Northeastern Spain) “La Casona” 2008
($30): In the hierarchy of the Spanish classification of wine growing areas, a Pago is at the top. Pago is a single estate that produces exceptional wines according to the Spanish authorities. La Casona is their mid-level wine, which seriously over delivers for the price. … Read more
Terras Gauda, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino “Abadía de San Campio” 2015
($18, Baron Francois): This 100% Albariño could be the poster child for Rias Baixas. Riveting without being aggressive, it awakens and refreshes the palate. It will slice through whatever flavors you put in front of it. A white pepperiness adds to its appeal. … Read more
Terras Gauda, O Rosal, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) 2015
($18, Baron Francois): The so-called “flagship” of the winery, this Rias Baixas is a blend of primarily Albariño (70%) and other indigenous varieties, Loureira and Caiño, which add subtle complexity. O Rosal refers to the valley in Rias Baixas where the vineyards are located. … Read more
Bodegas Franco Españolas, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Rioja Bordón” 2011
($18, Vision Wine & Spirits): A more serious wine than their Crianza, Bodegas Franco Españolas’ Rioja Reserva is yet another example of how Spanish wines over-deliver. It’s more refined and polished, delivering more complexity compared to the Crianza. The Crianza’s vivacity is apparent here as well, which means you will not tire of it throughout a meal. … Read more
Bodegas Franco Españolas, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) “Rioja Bordón” 2005
($25, Vision Wine & Spirits): Astounding to find beautifully matured wine at retail at this price. This Gran Reserva demonstrates the virtue of cellaring wine…only in this case, Bodegas Franco Españolas did the work and absorbed the expense involved in aging. … Read more
Bodegas Franco Españolas, Rioja Crianza (Spain) “Rioja Bordón” 2013
($13, Vision Wine & Spirits): The wines from Franco Españolas are just another example of the excellent bargains available from Spain. Take this Crianza for example. A blend of Tempranillo (80%) and Garnacha, it is a lively mixture of red fruit flavors, spice and herbs. … Read more
Bodegas Ochoa, Navarra (Spain) Reserva 2009
($22, Frontier Imports): Big and powerful, this blend of Tempranillo (55%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) and Merlot has a glossy texture. Even at seven years of age, a hint of seductive, almost sweet, oakiness remains. Its ripeness is felt in the finish as a touch of heat. … Read more
Pago de Larrainzar, Navarra (Spain) Reserva Especial 2009
($28): The international blend of Merlot (50%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) dwarfs the contribution of Tempranillo (15%) and Garnacha. With ripe flavors, a bit of sweet oak and a velvety texture, it’s a showy wine. Uplifting acidity keeps it lively and fresh, making it a good choice at a steakhouse.… Read more
Príncipe de Viana, Navarra (Spain) Tempranillo Reserva 2011
($17, Classical Wines of Spain): Navarra, a wine region in northern Spain, is best known for its Garnacha-based rosado. With its proximity to Rioja (indeed, a part of Rioja DOCa lies within the geographic area of Navarra) it is not surprising that Tempranillo, the major grape of its neighbor, does well too. … Read more
Cellars Uinó, Montsant (Catalonia, Spain) Garnacha “Perlat” 2014
($12, Monsieur Touton): Montsant is sometimes referred to as a “little brother” appellation to its more famous and expensive neighbor, Priorat. There’s nothing little brother about this wine. Waves of aromas pour from the glass predicting pleasure on the palate. It’s wonderfully dense, dark and ripe, yet does not go overboard and finishes with a subtle and paradoxical succulent bitterness. … Read more
Bodegas Virgen del Agulia-Paniza, Cariñena (Spain) Garnacha Vina Vejas de Paniza 2012
($14, Vinaio Imports): It’s curious — and perhaps confusing — that the primary grape of the Cariñena region is Garnacha and not Cariñena (a.k.a., Carignan in French and Carignano in Italian, and generally spelled “Carignane” in the U.S.A.). That said, there’s nothing confusing about this wine — it’s terrific. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Spain) Albarino 2015
($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Lovely wine, dreadful label. I rarely comment about a wine’s label. After all, it’s what’s in the bottle that counts. And in that category, this wine is easy to recommend. The problem is that the script on the label makes it almost impossible to figure out the name of the producer, so buying it is likely to be difficult. … Read more
Rolland & Galarreta, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2014
($22): Michel Rolland, owner of Château Bon Pasteur in Pomerol and consulting wine maker to scores of properties around the world, has had an enormous impact changing the style of wine. His stylistic imprint is most apparent in the reds, making them riper and bolder. … Read more
Rolland & Galarreta, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Crianza 2011
($24): This masterful blend of Merlot and Tempranillo should walk off the shelves. It’s a big muscular and meaty combination but with glossy tannins usually associated with far more expensive wines. Powerful and simultaneously elegant, it marries dark fruit and savory elements.… Read more
Beronia, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2010
($19, San Francisco Wine Exchange): I continue to be amazed — year after year — by the value Rioja delivers. It’s hard to imagine a more delightful wine selling for less than $20. It’s a balance of sweet, yet not heavy, fruit coupled with savory elements. … Read more
Beronia, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) 2006
($29, San Francisco Wine Exchange): Full disclosure, this wine gets additional points for value. I would run to buy it because wines of this quality at this price will disappear rapidly. Another fabulous bargain from Beronia, a Rioja producer whose well-priced wines rarely fail to thrill, it’s a traditional blend of Tempranillo (95%), Graciano and Mazuelo.… Read more
Viña Altamar, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Tempranillo 2013
($14, Hammeken Cellars): It is rare to find a wine from Ribera de Duero, one of Spain’s top wine areas, at this price. Especially one of this quality. Stony elements buttress the lovely rich, but not jammy, dark fruit flavors. Far more sophisticated than the price suggests, it has polished tannins and wonderful structure. … Read more
Emilio Moro, Ribera del Duero (Spain) “Malleous” 2011
($45, Moro Brothers): Moro’s 2011 Ribera del Duero is impressive because of its suaveness despite its size. Focusing more on mineraly or savory flavors than fruity ones, it has an attractive firmness without being hard. Some might complain about the amount of oak flavors showing at this stage, but they convey an alluring creaminess. … Read more
Bodegas Sepa 21, Castilla y León (Spain) “Hito” 2014
($16): Full disclosure: I gave this wine extra points for value, because it would be hard to do better at the price. It delivers a marvelous combination of black cherry-like fruitiness — not too much — and a slate-like minerality. The winemaking team has resisted the temptation to over extract the flavors and tannins or mask them with oak. … Read more
Alvaro Palacios, Priorat (Spain) “Les Terrasses” 2012
($38, Rare Wine Company): Palacios is one of the winemakers who were responsible for the renaissance of winemaking in this unique region. It’s easy to see why the vines were abandoned over the years: steep slopes of solid rock. A reasonable person could ask, why bother to replant vines here? … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Spain) “Pétalos” 2013
($19, Rare Wine Company): Palacios is one of the most famous and revered names in Spanish winemaking. Alvaro Palacios, along with others, is credited with the revival of the entire Priorat region. Now at his family’s estate in Rioja, he is energizing and reconfiguring how people think about wines from that region. … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Spain) “Villa de Corullon” 2012
($40, Rare Wine Company): Almost a decade ago, Oscar Alegre, export manager at Descendientes de J. Palacios, told me, referring to Bierzo, that “Nobody in Spain thinks quality wine comes from here.” I do not know whether the thinking in Spain has changed, but I can assure you that very high quality, exciting wines come from Bierzo, especially those made by Descendientes de J.… Read more
Marques de Caceres, Rioja (Spain) Blanco 2009
($9, Vineyard Brands): To most consumers, Rioja means red. And to be fair, the vast amount of it is. Until the last decade or so, the white wine produced in Rioja was not popularity here because it was often oxidized and tired. … Read more
Bodegas Bilbainas, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Viña Pomal” 2010
($21): Befitting a Rioja Reserva, there’s healthy dose of savory non fruit flavors that adds complexity and balances the red and black fruitiness of this Tempranillo-based wine. Indeed, it’s the earthy quality in this mid-weight traditionally framed wine that is captivating. … Read more
Bodega la Bastida, Rioja (Spain) “R & G” 2010
($26, Kysela Père et Fils): Though the producer is Bodega la Bastida, make no mistake, the names to remember are Michel Rolland, the internationally renowned oenologist who advising leading Bordeaux estates, and Javier Galarreta, a Spanish wine entrepreneur — hence the “R & G” emblazoned across the label. … Read more
Bodegas Valtravieso, Ribera del Duero (Spain) “R & G” 2010
($26, Kysela Père et Fils): A blend of mostly (90%) Tempranillo and Merlot, this, like their Rioja, is a joint venture between the world-famous enologist, Michel Rolland, a Spanish wine entrepreneur, Javier Galarreta, and Bodegas Valtravieso, from whose 200 acres Rolland selected the grapes. … Read more
El Coto, Rioja Blanco (Spain) 2012
($12, Frederick Wildman): Rioja Blanco — yes, you read that correctly. Though 95% of wine in Spain’s famed Rioja region is red, a small — and shrinking — amount of Viura is planted as growers replace that white grape with Tempranillo. … Read more
Bodegas Muriel, Rioja (Spain) Gran Reserva 2001
($30, Quintessential Wines): One of the great things about Rioja is their tradition of aging wine at the winery and then releasing it when it’s mature. Regulations require a Gran Reserva, which are made only in the best vintages, to be aged for a minimum of five years before release. … Read more
Bodega Alejandro Fernández, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Tinto Pesquera Reserva 2010
($49, Classical Wines from Spain): Commonly just known as Pesquera, this 2010 Reserva from Ribera del Duero expands on that wine’s dazzling reputation. It has marvelous minerality, penetration and spice, all wrapped in finely polished tannins that convey a sumptuous texture. … Read more
Martinsancho, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2013
($22, Classical Wines from Spain): Angel Rodriguez, the owner of Martínsancho, resurrected the Verdejo grape, the traditional cultivar of Rueda in the 1970s. King Juan Carlos of Spain recognized the importance of his work by awarding him the Cross of the Civil Order of Agriculture. … Read more
Morgadio, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2013
($22, Classical Wines from Spain): Morgadio’s 2013 is to Rias Baixas what Martínsancho’s 2013 is to Rueda–a classic example of the denominacíon. If you want to know what all the fuss is about Rias Baixas and its indigenous grape, Albariño, just taste this wine. … Read more
Mas d’En Gil, Priorat (Spain) Coma Vella 2008
($45, Classical Wines from Spain): The 2008 vintage in Priorat was cooler than usual, producing slightly less concentration, more vibrant wines. Mas d’En Gil’s style leans toward less massive Priorat than many of the other producers. The combination of their style and the vintage means that this wine, while still packing plenty of punch, is less muscular than the typical Priorat. … Read more
Bodegas Príncipe de Viana, Navarra (Spain) Garnacha Roble 2012
($16, Classical Wines from Spain): My mantra is producer, producer, producer. But when I am unfamiliar with a producer, I look at the importer, especially those who specialize in a country or region, because some importers’ portfolio are more consistent than others. … Read more
Losada, Bierzo (Spain) 2011
($23, Classical Wines from Spain): Bierzo may lack the name recognition of Rioja, but its wines can be equally memorable. The Mencía grape, historically known for making dilute wines from over cropped vines, can make stunning wines, such as this one, when the vines are planted on the rocky hillsides in this northwestern region of Spain. … Read more
Vall Llach, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Porrera de Vi de Vila de Vall Llach” 2010
($65, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Priorat is one of just two appellations awarded Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) status, Spain’s highest official wine category (Rioja is the other). Producers there are just starting to subdivide the region to show the distinctiveness of the wines from the various villages that comprise the DOCa. … Read more