($80): The Baudana family owns a small, 10-acre estate comprised of prized vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba, a subzone of the Barolo DOCG known for powerful wines. Since 2009, G. D. Vajra, small but one of Barolo’s top producers, has been responsible for tending the vineyards and making the wines. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Piedmont
Carussin, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) “Asinoi” 2013
($17, The Vine Collective): Carussin, a family run estate founded in 1927, focuses on Barbera. This one — Asinoi, an illusion to donkeys, which they also raise — is a blend from four of their vineyards. Despite its fruit-filled profile and its concentration, it’s neither sweet nor jammy. … Read more
Carussin, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) Lie Vi 2013
($20, The Vine Collective): Carussin’s Barbera labeled Lie Vi shows the importance of old vines. From a single vineyard whose vines average about 40 years, it delivers more purity, complexity and depth without losing any of the energy of their regular — Asinoi — bottling. … Read more
G. D. Vajra, Dolcetto d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) “Coste e Fossati” 2013
($26): G. D. Vajra, one of my favorite Barolo producers, also makes excellent wines from other traditional Piedmont grapes, such as this Dolcetto. This is an unusual Dolcetto because the vines are over 100 years old and they are planted in a two vineyards — Coste and Fossati — that actually lie in the Barolo DOCG and could be planted with Nebbiolo and sold at a far higher price. … Read more
Mirafiore, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Paiagallo” 2010
($80, Domaine Select Wine Estates): Here’s another example of the stature of the 2010 vintage in Barolo. Serralunga, the village within the Barolo DOCG zone where the Paiagallo vineyard is located, is known for powerful wines. Mirafiore’s certainly fits that description.… Read more
Damilano, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Cannubi 2010
($85): Cannubi is one of the truly great vineyards in the Barolo zone. If there were a Burgundy-like classification system of vineyards in Barolo, Cannubi would clearly be awarded the equivalent of Grand Cru status. Combine grapes from this vineyard, the stunning 2010 vintage, and an excellent producer and… bingo, you have a stellar wine. … Read more
Damilano, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) 2013
($17): I admit it. I love good Barbera. Along with Dolcetto, another workhorse grape and wine from Piedmont, Barbera is often my go-to choice at Italian restaurants because it meshes so nicely with food and almost always offers good value. Damilano (an estate that also made excellent Barolo in 2010) made a 2013 Barbera d’Asti that’s easy to embrace. … Read more
Elvio Cogno, Nascetta di Novello Langhe (Piedmont, Italy) Novello “Anas-Cëtta” 2013
($28, Wilson Daniels): It takes a bit of work to sort out the label, but it’s worth it. Starting at the top, Elvio Cogno is a red-hot producer in Piedmont best known for their Barolo and Barbaresco. Nascetta is an obscure variety from the Langhe thought by some to be related to Vermentino, which they’ve had in their Novello vineyard for a couple of decades. … Read more
Damilano, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Lecinquevigne” 2010
($35): Rarely have I read as much unanimity regarding the stature of a vintage as I have concerning the 2010 Barolo. And now, having tasted a fair number of them myself, I agree — it’s a consistently great vintage. Damilano is a well-known producer who bottles several single vineyard Barolos, which are captivating in 2010. … Read more
G. D. Vajra, Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) 2011
($23, The Country Vintner): Vajra is a top Barolo producer, so when I spied their Barbera on a list at East 12th Osteria, an excellent, but under-the-radar restaurant with a thoughtful wine list in New York City, it was an obvious choice. … Read more
Montalbera, Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “La Tradizione” 2011
($16, Soilair Selections): Ruché, an obscure grape native to Piedmont, thrives and, dare I say, achieves greatness, in the DOCG zone of Castagnole Monferrato. A savory, almost truffle-like, nose draws you. And then, with a paradoxical lightweight sensibility, it delivers an alluring mixture of sweetness and firmness. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cerequio” 2010
($107, Kobrand): Chiarlo owns more than half (23 of 40 acres) of this famed vineyard located in the commune of La Morra. In the 19th century the Cerequio vineyard was considered the only first growth of Barolo, according to Alberto Chiarlo, describes the wine from this vineyard, a south-facing amphitheatre, as the “Queen of Barolo” because of its ripe and open character. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cannubi” 2010
($107, Kobrand): The 45-acre Cannubi vineyard, one of Barolo’s most acclaimed, is divided among 22 producers, according to Alberto Chiarlo. With 3 acres, Chiarlo is the second largest owner, but they still produce only 6,000 bottles annually. Chiarlo explains that Barolo’s two major soil types converge in Cannubi, which, in his opinion, accounts for its wines’ complexity and power. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) “Le Orme” 2011
($15, Kobrand): The 2011 vintage, a warm one in Piedmont, was particularly good for Barbera because the extra ripeness balances that grape’s inherent acidity. With its bright signature and fruity charm, Chiarlo’s Le Orme is a great introduction for those who are unfamiliar with the virtues of that grape and wine. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) “La Court” 2011
($52, Kobrand): La Court, a more polished and “important” wine, makes a fascinating comparison with Chiarlo’s other Barbera d’Asti, Le Orme. The grapes come from the same vineyard, according to Alberto Chiarlo, but the ones destined for La Court are harvested later and then treated differently in the winery with fermentation occurring like Barolo, in open vats. … Read more
Banfi, Alta Langa DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Cuvée Aurora” Rosé Brut 2010
($32): This Rosé, made entirely from Pinot Noir, has the intensity of flavor you’d expect from a wine made from red grapes and a gorgeous rosy pink color. Made by the classic — that is, Champagne — method of a secondary fermentation in the bottle (metodo classico, in Italian), an elegant suaveness balances its power. … Read more
Principessa Gavia, Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2013
($15, Banfi Vintners): Though Piedmont is best known for its regal red wines, Barolo and Barbaresco, the region is home to a noteworthy white, Gavi, which takes its name from the town where the Cortese grape grows best. The 2013 from Principessa Gavia entices you with its delicate aromas of white flowers.… Read more
Vietti, Moscato d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) “Cascinetta” 2013
($18): Vietti is truly one of Piedmont’s — and Italy’s — most talented producers. They bottle a stunning array of Barolo and Barbaresco. But I didn’t realize they have figured out how to bottle springtime. With just 5.5 percent stated alcohol, a bit of sweetness and a little refreshing fizziness for balance, this Moscato d’Asti is just that — spring in a bottle. … Read more