($28, Wilson Daniels): It takes a bit of work to sort out the label, but it’s worth it. Starting at the top, Elvio Cogno is a red-hot producer in Piedmont best known for their Barolo and Barbaresco. Nascetta is an obscure variety from the Langhe thought by some to be related to Vermentino, which they’ve had in their Novello vineyard for a couple of decades. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Piedmont
Damilano, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Lecinquevigne” 2010
($35): Rarely have I read as much unanimity regarding the stature of a vintage as I have concerning the 2010 Barolo. And now, having tasted a fair number of them myself, I agree — it’s a consistently great vintage. Damilano is a well-known producer who bottles several single vineyard Barolos, which are captivating in 2010. … Read more
G. D. Vajra, Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) 2011
($23, The Country Vintner): Vajra is a top Barolo producer, so when I spied their Barbera on a list at East 12th Osteria, an excellent, but under-the-radar restaurant with a thoughtful wine list in New York City, it was an obvious choice. … Read more
Montalbera, Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “La Tradizione” 2011
($16, Soilair Selections): Ruché, an obscure grape native to Piedmont, thrives and, dare I say, achieves greatness, in the DOCG zone of Castagnole Monferrato. A savory, almost truffle-like, nose draws you. And then, with a paradoxical lightweight sensibility, it delivers an alluring mixture of sweetness and firmness. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cerequio” 2010
($107, Kobrand): Chiarlo owns more than half (23 of 40 acres) of this famed vineyard located in the commune of La Morra. In the 19th century the Cerequio vineyard was considered the only first growth of Barolo, according to Alberto Chiarlo, describes the wine from this vineyard, a south-facing amphitheatre, as the “Queen of Barolo” because of its ripe and open character. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cannubi” 2010
($107, Kobrand): The 45-acre Cannubi vineyard, one of Barolo’s most acclaimed, is divided among 22 producers, according to Alberto Chiarlo. With 3 acres, Chiarlo is the second largest owner, but they still produce only 6,000 bottles annually. Chiarlo explains that Barolo’s two major soil types converge in Cannubi, which, in his opinion, accounts for its wines’ complexity and power. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) “Le Orme” 2011
($15, Kobrand): The 2011 vintage, a warm one in Piedmont, was particularly good for Barbera because the extra ripeness balances that grape’s inherent acidity. With its bright signature and fruity charm, Chiarlo’s Le Orme is a great introduction for those who are unfamiliar with the virtues of that grape and wine. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) “La Court” 2011
($52, Kobrand): La Court, a more polished and “important” wine, makes a fascinating comparison with Chiarlo’s other Barbera d’Asti, Le Orme. The grapes come from the same vineyard, according to Alberto Chiarlo, but the ones destined for La Court are harvested later and then treated differently in the winery with fermentation occurring like Barolo, in open vats. … Read more
Banfi, Alta Langa DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Cuvée Aurora” Rosé Brut 2010
($32): This Rosé, made entirely from Pinot Noir, has the intensity of flavor you’d expect from a wine made from red grapes and a gorgeous rosy pink color. Made by the classic — that is, Champagne — method of a secondary fermentation in the bottle (metodo classico, in Italian), an elegant suaveness balances its power. … Read more
Principessa Gavia, Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2013
($15, Banfi Vintners): Though Piedmont is best known for its regal red wines, Barolo and Barbaresco, the region is home to a noteworthy white, Gavi, which takes its name from the town where the Cortese grape grows best. The 2013 from Principessa Gavia entices you with its delicate aromas of white flowers.… Read more
Vietti, Moscato d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) “Cascinetta” 2013
($18): Vietti is truly one of Piedmont’s — and Italy’s — most talented producers. They bottle a stunning array of Barolo and Barbaresco. But I didn’t realize they have figured out how to bottle springtime. With just 5.5 percent stated alcohol, a bit of sweetness and a little refreshing fizziness for balance, this Moscato d’Asti is just that — spring in a bottle. … Read more