Rosé naturally comes to mind when thinking of the wines from Provence. But I’m here to tell you that at least one appellation in the region, Les Baux de Provence, makes terrific reds. They also make excellent rosés. Yes, you read that correctly. … Read more
Category Archives: France – Provence
Minuty, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) “Prestige” 2019
($27, Vintus): Readers of my recommendations recognize that I am not enthralled with most still rosé wines on the market, preferring to chill a light red. This one stopped me in my tracks. Its pale pink color suggested an innocuous wine. … Read more
Mas de Gourgonnier, Les Baux de Provence (France) 2016
($17): A blend of the usual Mediterranean grapes, Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, and Mourvèdre, this charming wine has more finesse than you might expect from wines from this sun-soaked part of France. It delivers a winning combination of bright red fruit-like notes, herbal nuances and spice. … Read more
Mas de la Dame, Alpilles IGP (Provence, France) “La Gourmande” Rouge 2017
($15): Sitting at the base of the Alpilles (little Alps) in Provence, practically adjacent to Les Baux de Provence, the vineyards of Mas de la Dame are some of the most beautifully situated ones in all of France. The near constant “mistral” wind makes organic viticulture there easier, which explains why this wine is made from organically grown grapes. … Read more
Domaine Sainte Marie, Côtes de Provence (France) “VieVité” 2017
($19, Turquoise Life): VieVité uses a rectangular-shaped bottle to distinguish it from a the even increasing array of other pink wines that line retailers’ shelves. A blend of equal parts of the usual Mediterranean grapes, Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah with Carignan accounting for the remaining 10 percent, this pale pink wine delivers delicate, yet persistent notes of strawberries buttressed by enlivening freshness.… Read more
Alternatives to Rosé, Even in Provence
With apologies to Alfred Lord Tennyson, rosé to the left of us, rosé to the right of us, rosé in front of us, and there we were, drinking white wine in the heart of Provence. The sommelier at La Presque’îe, a spectacularly situated restaurant–with food to match–on the outskirts of Cassis overlooking the Mediterranean coast, told me that they sell a lot of rosé, but that, like us, many diners order white wine.… Read more
Domaine des Terres Blanches, Les Baux de Provence (France) 2016
($15): Les Baux de Provence, a small appellation in Provence that is entirely organic, is an outlier because it is known best for its red wines. That said, it’s home to some satisfying whites, such as this one. A blend primarily of Rolle (a.k.a.… Read more
Mas de Gourgonnier, Les Baux de Provence (France) 2015
($16, North Berkeley Imports; Skurnik Wines): Though located in the heart of Provence, Les Baux de Provence, an appellation of barely 600 acres, is known for its reds, rather than its rosés. The allowed grapes include the usual Mediterranean suspects, Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan, among others, and, perhaps surprisingly, Cabernet Sauvignon. … Read more
Maison Belle Claire, Côtes de Provence (France) 2015
($18, Romano Brands Fine wines): Regular readers of WineReviewOnline.com know I’m not a great fan of rosé — except when it has bubbles — often preferring a chilled light red wine instead. But Maison Belle Claire’s 2015 caught my attention because it delivers more complexity than most rosé. … Read more
Hecht & Bannier, Bandol (Provence, France) 2009
($34, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Juicy and succulent, this weighty Bandol is surprisingly user-friendly now with just enough tannic-acid structure to frame the black fruit-like flavors without being aggressive or intrusive. Hints of earth complement its dark fruitiness. It carries its intensity and concentration with grace. … Read more
Hecht & Bannier, Côtes de Provence Rosé (Provence, France) 2012
($18, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): The foil disc on top hides the closure so it’s not quite clear whether you need a corkscrew. You don’t. Once you remove the plastic neck label, which takes the foil disc with it, an easy-to-remove glass stopper twists off. … Read more
La Bastide Blanche, Bandol (Provence, France) Rosé 2012
($21, Weygandt Metzler): Bandol, a small, but important, appellation in Provence on the Mediterranean just east of Marseille, produces mostly robust red wines primarily from Mourvèdre. The appellation allows production of Rosé as well. This one, a blend of Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache, combines the refreshing aspect of rosé with real substance that comes from Mourvèdre. … Read more
Domaine de la Tour du Bon, Bandol (Provence, France) Rosé 2011
($20, Kermit Lynch): This serious rosé, a Mourvèdre dominant (55%) blend that includes other typical Mediterranean varieties of Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan, will convert those few remaining people (myself included) who believe rosés are inherently insipid. This one certainly is not–it’s real wine with herbal notes that complement the berry flavors. … Read more
Domaine du Gros’Noré, Bandol Blanc (Provence, France) 2009
($30, Kermit Lynch): Bandol, a small appellation bordering the Mediterranean, is well known for its sturdy Mourvedre-based red wines. But growers also make a tiny amount of white wine from the usual Mediterranean varieties, Bourboulenc, Clairette, and Ugni Blanc, as well as Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Château d’Esclans, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rosé “Whispering Angel” 2009
($21, Shaw Ross): Sacha Lichine, son of renowned Alexis Lichine, the larger than life wine-merchant, author and Bordeaux château owner, has forsaken the family’s traditional home base (Bordeaux) for sunny Provence where he aims to make the best rosé in the world at Château d’Esclans. … Read more
Château d’Esclans, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rosé “Garrus” 2008
($109, Shaw Ross): You read it correctly, over $100 a bottle for rosé. At Château d’Esclans, Sacha Lichine is aiming to take rosé to a new quality–and price–level. A blend of roughly 2/3rds Grenache, exclusively from 80-year-old vines, and Rolle from similarly aged vines, the Garrus is a selection from the very best vineyards on the estate. … Read more
Domaine Tempier, Bandol (Provence, France) “La Tourtine” 2007
($75, Kermit Lynch): The only question I have about this wine is whether it’s their best ever. Domaine Tempier is on everyone’s short list of Bandol’s finest producers. Their La Tourtine bottling comes from a vineyard on the slopes of the property. … Read more
Prieure de Montezargues, Tavel (France) 2007
($19, Henriot): Tavel, a lovely village in the south of France, is one of the few places in the world that makes only rosé. Not a by-product of a process to beef-up a red wine, this serious rosé has more substance than most. … Read more
Domaine de Triennes, Vin de Pays du Var (Provence, France) Rosé 2008
($16, The Sorting Table): Readers of this website know that I am not a fan of rosé (except for Rosé Champagne, of course) because it’s usually a byproduct of a technique-bleeding–to strengthen a red wine. Less commonly, some producers–such as those in Tavel in southern France–actually aim to produce rosé. … Read more
Château Romassan, Bandol (Provence, France) 2002
($48, Maisons Marques & Domaines): Domaines Ott, perhaps the leading producer of Provence wines, acquired Château Romassan in the 1950s. In Bandol, as in the Rhone Valley, 2002 was a disaster for wines. Nonetheless, Château Romassan made an admirable Bandol that year, reminding us that vintage reputation alone never tells the entire story. … Read more
Château Romassan, Bandol (Provence, France) 2002
($48, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Domaines Ott, perhaps the leading producer of Provence wines, acquired Château Romassan in the 1950s. In Bandol, as in the Rhone Valley, 2002 was a disaster for wines. Nonetheless, Château Romassan made an admirable Bandol that year, reminding us that vintage reputation alone never tells the entire story. … Read more
Domaine de Gros Noré, Bandol (Provence, France) 2006
($44, Kermit Lynch): Bandol, a small appellation in the south of France where the Mourvedre grape is king, is known for ripe intense red wines, such as this one. This robust wine, with deep black fruit character and herbal touches, is nicely balanced except for the noticeable heat–that’s the 15% stated alcohol speaking–in the finish.… Read more
Domaine Tempier, Bandol (Provence, France) “Cuvée La Migoua” 2006
($75, Kermit Lynch): This bottling comes from a separate, horseshoe-shaped hillside parcel separate from the Domaine that they acquired recently. Riper, with more punch, it is quite closed at this stage and seemingly lacks the complexity of their Cuvée Classique. It needs considerable time to unfold, as I’m sure it will given Domaine Tempier’s track record. … Read more
Domaine Tempier, Bandol (Provence, France) “Cuvée Classique” 2006
($50, Kermit Lynch): Domaine Tempier, arguably the best property in Bandol, is certainly responsible for introducing that appellation to American consumers. They produce this cuvée from several parcels spread around the appellation. Their Cuvée Classique has everything you’d want in Bandol, including layers of robust flavors tempered by fine tannins. … Read more
Chateau Minuty, Cotes de Provence (France) “Cuvee Prestige” 2004
($30, Romano Brands): Château Minuty, one of the cru classé of the Côtes de Provence, is rightly known for its vibrant and stylish Rosé. But they make red wine, an easy drinking one and this, their Prestige bottling made entirely from Mourvedre.… Read more