($28): 
Bichot purchased this 12.5-acre estate in the heart of Moulin-a-Vent, arguably the top Beaujolais cru, in 2014. The grapes come from three lieux-dits within Moulin-a-Vent, La Rochelle, Au Mont, and the young vines from Rochegrès itself. It is ripe, spicy and suave, combining richness, minerality and bright acidity. … Read more
Category Archives: France – Burgundy
Bichot is Back
If I needed any convincing—and I did not—that Bichot, the venerable Beaune-based Burgundy négoçiant, is back, it was after tasting a line-up of their 2018s. That vintage was precarious for winegrowers because the weather provided the potential for both fabulous wines or over-ripe ones with high alcohol levels depending on harvest date, location of the vineyards, and viticulture practices.
… Read more Jean Hugues & Guilhem Goisot, La Ronce, St-Bris, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2024La Ronce vineyard sits on a hill that has both north and south exposures, hence both Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay grow there. The soil is a mixture of Kimmeridgian limestone and clay, yet there’s more power here than in Goisot’s other St-Bris.
Off-piste Burgundy: Value alternatives
Even serious fans of Burgundy may be unfamiliar with St-Bris, Coteaux Bourguignons and Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains. In a region famous for its rigid devotion to vineyard sites identified by Cistercian monks eight centuries ago, these three appellations – and the wide variety of grape varieties they allow – demonstrate Burgundy’s ability to adapt to the subtleties wrought by the passage of time.… Read more
Louis Latour, Bourgogne, Passetoutgrains, Burgundy, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2021The traditional blend of two-thirds Gamay, one-third Pinot Noir makes this classically framed and easy-to-like Passe-tout-grains. The Pinot Noir comes from the Mâconnais and provides backbone, while Gamay from Beaujolais delivers upfront fruitiness. The lack of oak allows the fruit to shine, resulting in a ready-to-drink, mid-weight wine with charming rusticity and vivacity.
Domaine Bernard Moreau, Bourgogne, Passetoutgrains, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2022Brothers Alexandre and Benôit Moreau have run this top-notch Chassagne-Montrachet-based estate since 1999. Through their diligence in the vineyards and care in the winery, all of their wines – even from this lowly appellation – shine.
Domaine Trapet Père & Fils, A Minima, Bourgogne, Passetoutgrains, Burgundy, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2025Trapet Père et Fils, a stellar producer based in Gevrey-Chambertin, blends equal parts Pinot Noir and Gamay grown in Grand Champs, a vineyard in that village, for its Passe-tout-grains. It takes its name from the philosophy of minimal intervention, which in this case means biodynamic farming, indigenous yeasts and the addition of only a hint of sulphur at bottling.
Domaine Michel Lafarge, L’Exception, Bourgogne, Passetoutgrains, Burgundy, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2025Aptly named, as this leading Volnay-based estate has 1ha of vines, almost 10% of its estate, planted to Passe-tout-grains, some older than 90 years. This organic, biodynamic domaine typically uses equal amounts of Pinot Noir and Gamay with wild yeast to make this truly exceptional wine.
Louis Latour, Les Pierres Dorées, Coteaux Bourguignon, 2018
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2024The limestone in the soil of southern Beaujolais gives the name Pierres Dorées (‘golden rocks’) to the area. A company that knows a thing or two about Pinot Noir, Maison Latour has planted about 20ha of the grape there, and the wine it produces gets better with every vintage.
Louis Jadot, Coteaux Bourguignon, Burgundy, France, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2024Jadot combines Pinot Noir grown in Givry in the Côte Chalonnaise with Gamay from Beaujolais and releases it after an extended time in bottle, which is why 2017 is the current vintage. Blending 75% Gamay and 25% Pinot Noir in 2017, it shows the virtue of using these two grapes: the spine and savoury nuances provided by Pinot Noir act as a foil for Gamay’s red fruit-like profile in this beautifully balanced wine.
Domaine Jean & Gilles Lafouge, Coteaux Bourguignon, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2022This superb grower, based in Auxey-Duresses, used the flexible regulations of Coteaux Bourguignons to tweak its usual blend of consistently winsome Passe-tout-grains. The 2017 contains 70% Gamay and 30% Pinot Noir, both from slopes around the winery where the limestone-rich soil imparts even more acidity to the Gamay than the granitic soil of Beaujolais.
Maison Fatien Père & Fils, Coteaux Bourguignon, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2022In a small vineyard in the commune of Meursault, but outside the Bourgogne Blanc appellation, Fatien Père et Fils has Chardonnay with, as Charles Fatien notes, ‘a few rogue Aligoté vines thrown in’. Previously relegated to the Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire category, it is no ordinary wine.
Domaine Fargues, Coteaux Bourguignon, Burgundy, France, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2024Bénédicte and Bastien Fargues established their tiny 1.3ha estate in Bligny-lès-Beaune in 2005 and are already making notable wines. They limit yields by debudding and bottle without fining or filtering. This 2017 Chardonnay-Aligoté blend demonstrates the virtue of that marriage.
Jean Louis & Jean Christophe Bersan, Cuvée Marianne, St-Bris, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2022This father-and-son team’s 2018 Cuvée Marianne is from 45-year-old vines planted on both Portlandian and Kimmeridgian limestone mixed with clay. Dense, but not heavy, it has aromas and flavours of wet stones. Invigorating acidity balances the ripeness of the vintage and amplifies a steely finish.
Bailly-Lapierre, St-Bris, Burgundy, France, 2018
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2020This cooperative of about 430 growers is best known for its Crémant de Bourgogne, but it also makes a lovely St-Bris. The 2018 took a silver medal at the 29th Concours des Vins du Grand Auxerrois.
Jean Hugues & Guilhem Goisot, Corps de Garde, St-Bris, Burgundy, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2023Goisot, a family-owned estate, makes fabulous wines across its range, and has farmed biodynamically for two decades. The lower-yielding Sauvignon Gris used for the Corps de Garde is thought to provide more substance. The wine comes from a variety of vineyards composed of Kimmeridgian limestone mixed with clay.
Domaine Séverine & Lionel Jacquet, St-Bris, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2022Founded in 2002 with 2.8ha, based in the village of Chitry, near Chablis, and now expanded to 16ha. The Jacquets started producing St-Bris in 2011, and they are clearly fast learners, since this 2018 St-Bris won a gold medal at the 29th Concours des Vins du Grand Auxerrois.
J. de Villebois, Touraine AOP (Loire Valley, France) Sauvignon Blanc 2018
($16, Vineyard Brands): 
The Loire Valley is home to a vast number of wines made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape, the best known of which are those from Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé appellations. But other appellations, such as the wider one, Tourraine, should not be forgotten, especially as prices of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé rise. … Read more
Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire” 2017
($35): 
What a great village Chablis! It demonstrates the importance of the producer and old vines. With this wine, Jean-Marc Brocard, one of the region’s top growers, delivers more character and clarity than many producers’ premier cru. Flinty and precise, it cuts a gorgeous profile.… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Couvent des Jacobins” 2016
($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Jadot is justly proud of their “simple” Bourgogne Blanc. The grapes — all Chardonnay — come from throughout Burgundy, allowing them to alter the blend as the vintage demands. With a slightly warmer vintage, they can include grapes from cooler continue to keep the wine fresh. … Read more
Burgundy’s 2018 Vintage: The Importance of Harvest Date
During the annual press conference in November, 2018 at which various Burgundy luminaries discussed the recent vintage, Françoise Labet, President of the organization that represents Burgundy wine, proclaimed that the recently completed vintage was, “Close to 1947,” which was a legendary year. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Caradeux 2017
($45, Louis Latour, USA): 
Maison Louis Latour, on of Burgundy’s top producers, made a spectacular array of white wines in 2017. This Premier Cru from Pernand-Vergelesses is just one example. Latour owns a portion of the vineyard, En Caradeux, which sits in an ideal position in the middle of the slope, facing east, which means it’s a Domaine or Estate wine. … Read more
Mixed Vintage News from Burgundy
BEAUNE, Burgundy, November 19, 2019: First the good news. The 2018 vintage produced large quantities of high-quality wines, both red and white. It’s unusual to see good yields of high-quality wines in Burgundy, but that’s what happened in 2018. Unlike the 2015 vintage, which I characterized as a “point and shot” vintage for the reds because the quality was so consistently 
high that you practically couldn’t miss picking a fine wine, there is considerable variability among the 2018s that I’ve tasted. … Read more
William Fevre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) 2018
($25, Maison Marques et Domaines): 
Saint-Bris, formerly known as Sauvignon de Saint Bris before it was elevated to appellation d’origine controllée (AOC) status, is curious and unique in Burgundy. Located in the far north, near Chablis and covering a mere 200 acres, it requires the use of Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay, for its wines. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Côteaux Bourguignons (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir “Les Pierres Dorées” 2017
($26, Louis Latour, USA): 
Côteaux Bourguignons is a relatively new appellation, replacing Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, an appellation I’ve never seen in the U.S., perhaps because a “grand ordinary” wine is hard to sell. Grapes for this appellation can come from anywhere in Burgundy, from Beaujolais in the south to Irancy in the north. … Read more
Domaine P-L & J-F Bersan, Cuvée Marianne, Irancy, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029Though they have a hectare of vines in Irancy, their Cuvée Marianne comes from Pinot Noir—and a tiny amount of César—from two lieux-dits, Les Rez and La Grande Côte Est, that they buy from a neighbouring grower.
Domaine de Mauperthuis, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
The stony character of the appellation offsets the ripeness imparted by the 2019 vintage. The inclusion of César adds a savoury and enchanting rusticity that contrasts nicely with the more black-fruited, as opposed to red cherry, notes.
Clotilde Davenne, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
Davenne’s village Irancy shows her talent. While it does not command the same presence as her Paradis bottling, there’s plenty to like here. Great aromatics, a bit of red fruits, some minerality, freshness and a polished texture come together in this beautifully balanced wine.
Domaine Colinot, Veaupessiot, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
Veaupessiot lieu-dit sits adjacent to Palotte, but lower on the slope. The 2019 Veaupessiot is a good contrast with their riper 2018 from the same site and demonstrates a clear distinction between these two hot vintages.
Domaine Colinot, Palotte, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
From Palotte, a south-facing lieu-dit that many locals and critics, alike, consider to be one of Irancy’s best site, Domaine Colinot has combined both a fruity and minerally expression of Irancy. Colinot’s Palotte bottling exhibits good ripeness—both the site and vintage speaking—with sufficient balancing acidity that keeps it lively.
Christophe Ferrari Domaine St. Germain, Irancy, Burgundy 2019
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
Nicolas Ferrari, one of the leading young producers in Irancy, succeeded admirably with his 2019s. Subtle spiciness is a welcome counterpoint to the more black than red fruit flavours displayed here. The sunshine of the vintage explains the wine’s succulence, while the cooler nights and Irancy’s northern locale capture balancing acidity.
Maison de la Chapelle, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
Here’s a great example of the high-quality wines from Irancy that a newly established small domaine can produce. Made entirely from Pinot Noir, this Irancy is a terrific expression of the appellation. Dark cherry-like fruitiness offsets the wine’s stony, iron-tinged side.
Maison de la Chapelle, Les Bâtardes, Irancy, Burgundy, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
This wine made exclusively from Pinot Noir from the Les Bâtardes lieu-dit makes an excellent comparison to Maison de la Chapelle’s multi-vineyard Irancy bottling. As with their Irancy village bottling, Les Bâtardes is refined and pure, albeit expressing riper, more lush fruit character and less stoniness at this stage.
Isabelle & Denis Pommier, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
Unsurprisingly, this top Chablis producer has also produced a winning village Irancy. Polished tannins enrobe this lively mix of herbal, cherry-like fruit, and minerals. There’s a little bit of everything and not too much of anything.
Domaine Verret, Fût de Chêne, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
Many wines, especially from lesser-known appellations, proclaiming Fût de Chêne (aged in oak) are askew with prominent wood flavours and tannins. Not Verret’s Irancy. It was aged for 11 months in used – four to 12-year old- barrels, which helps explain why the oak is seamlessly incorporated into the wine.
Domaine Ternynck, Palotte, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
A field blend of Pinot Noir and César, this Palotte was aged in older oak barrels for 18 months, gravity-racked, and bottled without fining or filtration. This mid-weight wine displays a plethora of red fruits and distinct, almost tarry, minerality, reflecting the stature of the lieu-dit and the care and talents of the winemaking team.
Domaine Ternynck, Mazelot, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
Ternynck’s Mazelot bottling, made entirely from Pinot Noir, shows the wonderful diversity of the lieux-dits of Irancy. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts and judicious aging in mostly used French oak barrels allows the wine to convey the Janus-like duality of Burgundy – black cherry-like fruitiness and an earthy, savoury side.
Domaine Colinot, Cuvée Soufflot, Irancy, Burgundy, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
This is a masterful blend of Pinot Noir and César that Colinot has co-fermented since the varieties are planted and harvested together. A hint of minerality peaks out from underneath the wine’s firm and fruity red cherry-like profile.
Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen, Les Mazelots, Irancy, Burgundy, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
This new and tiny domaine, founded less than a decade ago, produces only about 6,000 bottles from one hectare of Pinot Noir in the Les Mazelots lieu-dit. This Mazelots reflects the care they put into their wines.
Clotilde Davenne, Paradis, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
With her 2019 Paradis, Clotilde Davenne shows why the Paradis lieu-dit has potential for 1er Cru status. She does not want wood marring the wine, so she uses no new barrels, noting that ‘César does it all’.
Stéphan & Marie Podor, Les Mazelots, Irancy, Burgundy, 2015
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2025
From 75+ year old vines, the 2015 Podor Mazelots shows that the wine from the top lieux-dits in Irancy need time to show their stuff. There’s good density here and a touch of charming rusticity, no doubt from the five or so percent of César in the blend.
Simonnet-Febvre, Paradis, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2018
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2032
Wine from this south-southwest facing lieu-dit shows the importance of terroir. As much as I liked Simonnet-Febvre’s straight Irancy, this one is just better, although not for current drinking. Tighter and, despite no César in the blend, it’s more tannic than their straight Irancy.
Domaine Verret, Palotte, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
Made entirely from Pinot Noir, this cuvée reflects the stature of the lieu-dit. This mid-weight wine displays excellent richness without a trace of heaviness or over-ripeness. Verret captured riveting acidity, imbuing the wine with energy. Minerals and red fruit flavours dance on the palate, intermingling seamlessly.
Domaine Colinot, Les Mazelots, Irancy, Burgundy, 2012
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2026
When tasted with Anita Colinot in 2019, she felt this bottling was just coming into its own. Though I hadn’t tasted it at a more youthful time, I can see what she means. Any rusticity that César may have imparted during its youth has morphed into an alluring complexity of earthy leafiness.
Domaine Benôit Cantin, Cuvée Emeline, Irancy, 2015
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2025
Benoit took over this multi-generational family estate based in Irancy itself in 1994. This cuvée, named for his daughter, is a multi-parcel blend that contains a bit of César and shows how beautifully these village wines can develop.
Dampt Freres, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
This well-regarded Chablis-based winery has hit the bullseye with their 2019 Irancy. Both elegant and firm, it displays the alluring Burgundian sensibility of what I call, flavour without weight. A floral element complements its red-fruited profile.
Jean Hugues & Guilhem Goisot, Les Mazelots, Irancy, 2017
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
Goisot, a top-notch producer of white wines in the Auxerre, also shows their talents with this red from nearly 100-year old vines planted in the Mazelots lieu-dit. Goisot says they don’t need César in this cuvée because the terroir provides plenty of structure.
William Fevre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) 2018
($25, Maison Marques et Domaines): 
Saint-Bris, formerly known as Sauvignon de Saint Bris before it was elevated to appellation d’origine controllée (AOC) status, is curious and unique in Burgundy. Located in the far north, near Chablis and covering a mere 200 acres, it requires the use of Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay, for its wines. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Côteaux Bourguignons (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir “Les Pierres Dorées” 2017
($26, Louis Latour, USA): 
Côteaux Bourguignons is a relatively new appellation, replacing Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, an appellation I’ve never seen in the U.S., perhaps because a “grand ordinary” wine is hard to sell. Grapes for this appellation can come from anywhere in Burgundy, from Beaujolais in the south to Irancy in the north. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) 2017
($20): 
Simonnet-Febvre, another superb Chablis producer, crafts a consistently balanced Saint-Bris. The initial whiff screams Sauvignon Blanc, but amazingly, within minutes, aromas and then flavors of wet stone appear. Clean and cutting, this edgy wine displays plenty of depth. Where are the steamed clams?… Read more