($39): When consumers consider Bordeaux, they rightly remember the names of the chateaux more than the names of the people behind them. Well, the name André Lurton is worth remembering because the Lurton family has a spectacular track record of producing excellent wines from a variety of properties all over Bordeaux. … Read more
Category Archives: France – Bordeaux
Clos Floridene, Graves (Bordeaux, France) 2011
($33): White wine from Bordeaux is undervalued and overlooked. Don’t make that mistake with this charming example. It has a near magical combination of a pleasantly grassy pungency beautifully balanced by a lanolin-like creaminess. Truly mouth filling, it’s long and graceful as well. … Read more
Château Graville-Lacoste, Graves (Bordeaux, France) 2012
($18, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): Though I reviewed this wine earlier this year, I just tasted it again and realized I should repeat my earlier recommendation because it’s an especially good choice for the Thanksgiving table. It’s a perfectly harmonized amalgam of lanolin-like texture (from Semillon, which comprises a majority of the blend), with the brightness and freshness of Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Léo de la Gaffelière, Saint-Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2011
($19, Luneau USA / Nicolas Wines): Château La Gaffelière is one of the leading properties in Saint-Emilion, making sensational wine year in and year out. As the competition at the top end of Bordeaux continues, the top properties make ever increasing severe selections to maintain the quality — and price — of the top wine. … Read more
Château de Cruzeau, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2010
($27, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits): This wine exemplifies why Bordeaux remains a benchmark for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot-based wine. It’s not just about the fruit, of which there’s plenty. But the real excitement comes from the non-fruit flavors of earth, herbs and ash, plus the slight bitterness in the long and fine finish. … Read more
Château Gravelier, Bordeaux (France) 2010
($10, Esprit du Vin): Let me know when you find a better $10 red wine. This Merlot dominant (70%) blend is an unbelievable bargain, delivering both fleshy fruit flavors and balancing savory notes. Solid weight, freshness, and an ever so slightly bitter finish just add to the enjoyment. … Read more
Château Lamothe de Haux, Bordeaux (France) 2012
($12, Bayfield Importing): White wines from Bordeaux, such as this one, are underappreciated and hence, offer great value. The 2012 Château Lamothe de Haux, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (40%), Semillon (40%) and Muscadelle, delivers a lovely grassy bite — Sauvignon Blanc speaking — atop a creamy texture, thanks to the Semillon. … Read more
Château Nicot, Bordeaux (France) 2009
($10, Wine Brokers International): It is ironic that, at the same time Bordeaux is criticized for becoming a luxury commodity, it is producing terrific bargain wines like this one. Attractive herbal elements harmonize with plenty of dark fruit flavors. A subtle, fleeting bitterness in the finish adds to its appeal.… Read more
Château Recougne, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) 2009
($16, Vintus): As always, this “simple” Bordeaux is satisfying and a great value. The herbal nuances that accompany the mixture of fruit flavors are what make it so appealing. It has the length and grace you’d expect from a more expensive bottling. … Read more
Château Tour D’Auron, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) 2009
($16, Vintus Imports): Château Tour D’Auron is a château controlled by the well-regarded and talented Milhade family, who produces a bevy of fine wines from all their properties. This “little” wine exemplifies why Bordeaux is so popular. Supple and polished, it has the concentration of the 2009 vintage. … Read more
Château Penin, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) 2009
($15, Wine Brokers International): The 2009 vintage in Bordeaux produced ripe, fleshy red wines. Even at the lower appellation levels, such as Bordeaux Supérieur, the tannins are ripe and supple, not green, which makes these wines particularly attractive. The 2009 Château Penin is classic Bordeaux with a satisfying combination of ripe red fruit flavors and earthy nuances. … Read more
Château Lestrille, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) 2009
($13, Wine Brokers International): Here’s another bargain priced Bordeaux that shows how the lower appellations benefited from the ripeness of the 2009 vintage. Black fruit flavor predominate in this weightier wine. Subtle tarry elements and even a mildly chewy texture add to its appeal. … Read more
2009 Bordeaux: Voluptuous Wines
They’re here! The much-praised 2009 Bordeaux, the region’s priciest vintage, has arrived. Representatives from the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) were in New York this past week as part of their nationwide tour to give the trade the first comprehensive look at this much-heralded vintage. … Read more
Château Recougne, Bordeaux Superieur (Bordeaux, France) 2006
($15, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): This is the kind of Bordeaux that everyone loves to find because it delivers more than either the price or the appellation suggests. Château Recougne, one of the key properties of the talented Milhade family, is located near Pomerol on the right bank of Bordeaux’s Gironde River. … Read more
Christian Moueix, Bordeaux (France) Merlot “Encore” 2005
($15, Kobrand): If the Moueix family, who owns or controls many properties in Pomerol–including Chateau Pétrus–where Merlot is king, can’t produce an exhilarating Merlot, then no one can. The name, Encore, is apt because after one taste you want more of this serious Merlot. … Read more
Economic squeeze hitting Bordeaux wines
“This could be the crash of the century instead of the vintage of the century,” quipped Coco Conroy of Château Brane-Cantenac, a second-growth property in Margaux, as she jokingly referred to Bordeaux’s 2008 vintage.
Like other blue chips, Bordeaux, the bluest of blue chips in the world’s wine market, is not immune to this economic downturn.… Read more
An American in St. Emilion
Could it be that an American, Stephen Adams, will bridge–and bring together–the two faces of Bordeaux’s major Right Bank appellations?
St. Emilion and Pomerol have long been known for producing some of Bordeaux’s most sought-after wines, such as Château Cheval Blanc, Château Ausone and Château Pétrus.… Read more
Château Thieuley, Bordeaux (France) 2005
($12, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): A gorgeous blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, it shows the combination of grace and ripeness that is the hallmark of the 2005 vintage. Unusually complex for a wine of this price, it has nuances of earth and other non-fruit flavors to complement the fruit flavors.… Read more
Château Recougne, Bordeaux Superiéur (Bordeaux, France) 2005
($15, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): This is one of many wines that demonstrates the tremendous value to be found in the 2005 red Bordeaux. It delivers more enjoyment that its modest appellation, Bordeaux Superiéur, suggests. Meaty nuances combine with ripe fruit flavors in this silky wine. … Read more
A tale of two Bordeaux: Aside from the top chateaus, the region’s producers struggle to be relevant
Perusing the selection at a Cannes wine shop, I noticed a group of Japanese businessmen. Among the shop’s selection of upscale wines — such as Cristal and grand cru Burgundies — one gentleman selected two bottles of 1995 Cheval Blanc, one of Bordeaux’s greatest wines (for just over $600 a bottle).… Read more
2006 Red Bordeaux Reviews
The Red Wines:
L’Angelus (St. Emilion) 2006: Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, who, along with his cousin, Jean-Bernard Grenié, runs L’Angelus, told me that a gentle extraction was critical in 2006. They performed most of the extraction early, during fermentation, when the alcohol (which is a solvent) was low to minimize extracting bitter tannins.… Read more
Bordeaux 2006: Variable, with Superb Peaks
Variable is the best way to describe the 2006 vintage in Bordeaux–except for the dry whites, which are consistently excellent. That’s my assessment after tasting about 250 wines–all barrel samples–in Bordeaux last month. Some properties, such as Château Mouton and Château Lafite Rothschild, made fabulous wines.… Read more
Mouton Cadet, Bordeaux (France) 2004
($12, North Lake Wines): This classic Bordeaux blend of two-thirds Merlot and one-third Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc delivers more substance and elegance than you would expect from a ‘popular’ brand. Its suave tannins balance the moderate fruit and tobacco flavors. … Read more
Change at Lagrange: Global Warming and Robert Parker
What do Robert Parker and global warming have in common? They are the two major forces in Bordeaux over the last two decades, according to Marcel Ducasse, who has a unique perspective on the changes in Bordeaux during that time. Ducasse will be retiring next month after 23 years as the managing director of the now resurrected cru classé property, Chateau Lagrange in St.… Read more
There’s More Than One Way to Make Coq au Vin
Although I’m lucky to be able to interview individual winemakers or managers of wine estates, it’s unusual to sit around a table with a group of them to discuss their individual winemaking philosophies and techniques. You learn very quickly that, just as there are multiple ways to cook a chicken, there’s more than one way to make great wine.… Read more
Mouton Cadet, Bordeaux (France) 2003
($9): Those who have avoided Mouton Cadet because they feel it is ‘mass produced’ need to taste the 2003 vintage of this standard-bearer from Bordeaux. Ripe, reflecting the vintage, but most importantly balanced, it has unexpected subtly and graceful tannins. Not overdone, it’s a good example of what Bordeaux has to offer. … Read more
Château Recougne, Bordeaux Superiéur (Bordeaux, France) 2003
($13, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Gamey flavors attractively complement the layers of ripe fruit elements in this balanced wine. The tannins are supple and symmetrical with the fruit, which means the wine is perfect for drinking now. The price makes it hard to resist.… Read more
Everybody Loves a Deal: Alter Ego
Everybody loves a deal, and some of the best deals in Bordeaux these days are the “second” wines of the top-rated Bordeaux properties. “Second wines” come from parcels of the vineyard or barrels in the cellar that, for whatever reason, just don’t measure up to the producer’s standard for that particular year.… Read more
Special Report: Bordeaux 2005 Tasting Notes
The following notes are based on barrel samples tasted (unblinded) at the chateaux, at an unblinded tasting organized by the Cercle Rive Droite de Grands Vins de Bordeaux, an association of Right Bank producers, an unblinded tasting organized by Bill Blatch, a respected négociant, or at blind tastings organized by the Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux.… Read more
Special Report: Bordeaux 2005, A Vintage to Cellar
After a week in Bordeaux, where I tasted more than 400 wines from the 2005 vintage, there is no question that this is a great vintage for red, dry white and sweet white wines. Although nature was equally benevolent across the regions, winemaking techniques (how long to macerate, how much new wood) and decisions (when to pick) resulted in dramatically different styles of wine, especially in Saint-Emilion.… Read more
Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough: A True New World Terroir
The French speak passionately about terroir, a concept maintaining that the character of a wine comes from the unique climate and soil where the grapes are grown. They claim grapes are mere vehicles for transmitting the flavor of the earth into the wine from which they are crafted.… Read more