($34, Vintus): 
What a difference between varietal Sauvignon Blanc and the taste that grape imparts to the wine depending on where it is planted. Here in Collio, Attems Sauvignon Blanc speaks far more strongly to the place rather than the grape. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
DiamAndes, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) Chardonnay “Perlita” 2022
($15): 
Oh no, another South American Chardonnay. Well, it turns out that DiamAndes’ is not just another South American Chardonnay. The backstory is as fascinating as the wine is stunning. DiamAndes is a project of the A & M Bonnie family, owners of Château Malartic Lagravière, one of the leading estates in Pessac-Léognan. … Read more
Trothe, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Grenache “Limited” 2021
($162): 
Trothe wines come exclusively from Andrews Family Vineyards, which the family has farmed for generations, in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA of Washington State. Although only available through their website, the public should be aware of these bold wines because they have a measure of elegance despite their size. … Read more
Trothe, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Syrah 2021
($148): 
Like the other Trothe bottlings, their plummy Syrah is bold, delivering ripe, black fruit flavors spiced with a hint of black pepper. The velvety texture, which seems to be Trothe’s hallmark, makes the wine strikingly suave, yet with enough structure so it’s not flabby. … Read more
Trothe, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
($234): 
Weighing in at 14.5 percent stated alcohol, this massive Cabernet still maintains its identity with a panoply of black olive and other savory elements atop rich cassis-like flavors. Certainly big and bold, it nearly verves into the overdone lane, but manages to stay focused on its path. … Read more
Duca di Salaparuta, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Vermentino “Sentiero del Vento” 2021
($17): 
Duca di Salaparuta’s “Sentiero del Vento” is a fresh and breezy Vermentino perfect for cutting through August’s heat and humidity. The barest hint of bitterness in the finish of this mid-weight — not voluptuous — wine adds to its appeal. … Read more
Pellegrino, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo “Gazzerotta Senaría” 2022
($26, Caput Mundi Wine Import): 
Pellegrino does a masterful job with this light weight Grillo, a white grape indigenous to Sicily. Saline-infused acidity enhances its clean and fresh profile, while a hint of white pepper in the finish amplifies its appeal. … Read more
Domaine Barmès-Buecher, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Rosenberg” 2022
($36, Petit Pois Corporation / Fleet Street Wine Merchants): 
Pinot Blanc can often be light and innocuous. Not in the hands of Barmès-Buecher. Biodynamic since 2001, family owned and run Barmès-Buecher shows how captivating Pinot Blanc can be. Vibrant acidity balances and amplifies its density and pear-like nuances. … Read more
Domaine Ostertag, Alsace (France) Pinot Noir “Les Jardins” 2021
($42, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant): 
Pinot Noir is Alsace’s overlooked variety. It accounts for only about 12 percent of the region’s planting and much of it goes into Crémant d’Alsace Rosé, which must be made exclusively from that variety. So, it is not surprising there’s not a lot of it on retailers’ shelves. … Read more
Tapiz, San Pablo, Uco Valley (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec “Black Tears” 2019
($51, Vino del Sol): 
Jean Claude Berrouet, the former winemaker at Château Pétrus and other Moueix estates, consults at Tapiz, another Patricia Ortiz property. Berrouet’s hallmark style — subtlety and finesse — is clearly apparent in this stunning Malbec. It helps that they have selected special lots from a single vineyard located at over 4,440 feet above sea level. … Read more
Tapiz, San Pablo, Uco Valley (Mendoza, Argentina) “Retrato Por Jean Claude” 2017
($100, Vino del Sol): 
Sometimes just smelling a wine lets you know how great it will be. This is such a wine. Jean Claude Berrouet, who made over 40 vintages at Château Pétrus before retiring in 2007, consults at Tapiz, so it is not surprising that they would produce a Bordeaux blend alongside their marvelous Malbec. … Read more
Zolo, Luján de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Estate Grown 2021
($23, Vino del Sol): 
Patricia Ortiz, who owns Zolo, emphasizes the importance of estate grown fruit, which gives them complete control over planting, farming, and harvesting the grapes. In wry, understated manner, she adds, “When you must purchase grapes, it’s different.” … Read more
Hillick & Hobbs, Seneca Lake (Finger Lakes, New York) Dry Riesling Estate 2021
($35): 
Paul Hobbs, one of the most prominent winemakers in the world, needs no introduction. His project in the Fingers Lakes is unique for him because he started it by establishing a vineyard instead of collaborating with growers as he has done elsewhere. … Read more
Jean-Baptiste Adam, Alsace (France) Riesling “Les Natures” 2021
($25, The Sorting Table): 
Consumers tell me they avoid Riesling because they don’t know if it will be sweet or dry. It is an understandable concern that mandates knowing the producer’s style or trusting a review. For those of you unfamiliar with Adam’s style, trust me, their riveting 2021 Les Natures cuts like a scalpel without a trace of sweetness. … Read more
Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Muscat 2021
($29, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Although Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, one of Alsace’s great producers, was founded in 1959, the family traces its winemaking origins to 1620. Still family owned and run, they own about 100 acres, which they farm organically and biodynamically. … Read more
Wapisa, Rio Negro, Patagonia (Argentina) Malbec 2021
($25, Vino del Sol): 
Wapisa shows its consistency with this fresh and lively Malbec. Fabian Valenzuela, the winemaker, has resisted the temptation to make what has become all too common — a muscular, in-your-face Malbec. Instead, this one leads with great aromatics and follows by combining a pepper-like spice with mid-weight black fruit flavors. … Read more
Wapisa, Rio Negro, Patagonia (Argentina) Pinot Noir 2022
($25, Vino del Sol): Wapisa, located only about 25 miles from the Atlantic Ocean and Patagonia’s only coastal winer
y, is the indigenous Patagonian name for whale. Owned by Patricia Ortiz, one of Argentina’s leading winemakers, it makes a splendid array of wines. … Read more
Crosby Roamann, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2022
($85): 
I would like to know more about Crosby Roamann, a Napa Valley winery I am unfamiliar with, because this wine is stunning. Sadly, I could not penetrate their website because a pop-up announcing their newsletter required an email address, which I was not inclined to leave, before proceeding. … Read more
Domaine La Florane, Côtes du Rhône-Villages Saint Maurice (Rhône Valley, France) “Echevin” 2021
($21): 
The Rhône Valley provides a treasure trove of reasonably priced reds and whites, especially from the appellations with a lesser pedigree compared to the famed ones, such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Hermitage. There is a trio of appellations, Côte du Rhône, Côtes du Rhone-Villages, and Côtes du Rhône-Villages with a named village appended, such as Saint Maurice, that offer particularly good value. … Read more
Domaine Servin, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Butteaux 2022
($32): 
For hockey aficionados, this wine is a hat trick: Great producer, great vintage, great price. For non-hockey fans, just buy this wine. Some of it is in my cellar. You’ll smile. Domaine Servin, one of Chablis’ top producers, succeeded admirably with their 2022s, which is not surprising given the stature of the vintage. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2022
($22): 
The appellation, Bourgogne Aligoté, is an anomaly in Bourgogne, the epicenter of terroir-based viticulture, because it is named for the grape, not the site. The grapes for Bourgogne Aligoté can come from anywhere in Bourgogne, from the Côte Auxerrois in the north near Chablis to Mâcon in the south. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2021
($55): 
Tongue Dancer makes a range of Chardonnays (and Pinot Noirs) highlighting the uniqueness of the vineyards from which they source the grapes. This one, in contrast, is a blend of several vineyards from throughout the Russian River Valley. It is an opulent Chardonnay with all the richness you would expect from grapes grown in the Russian River Valley. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard 2021
($50): 
Choosing between Tongue Dancer’s Bacigalupi and the Pratt Vineyard bottlings is like choosing between your children. To be sure, the wines are different despite similar winemaking philosophy, which shows that terroir influence (i.e., where the grapes grow has an impact) is alive and well in California. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Pratt Vineyard, Irwin Lane 2021
($59): 
Wow! Here in the 2021 Pratt Vineyard Chardonnay the winemaking team at Tongue Dancer has combined opulence with finesse. Freshness in the finish serves to amplify the wine’s considerable charm. A delectable hint of bitterness in the finish reinforces its stature and complexity. … Read more
Wither Hills Winery, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2023
($15, Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners): 
Here is an example of why New Zealand — specifically Marlborough — Sauvignon Blanc has captured the world’s attention. It delivers a delightfully cutting and invigorating lime-like edginess that cuts through any flavor on the plate, as well as the heat and humidity of summer. … Read more
Maset des Montagnes, Côtes du Roussillon (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) Grenache – Macabeu “Terroirs D’Altitude” 2022
($23, Albert Bichot USA): 
With this wine, Maset des Montagnes, one of the estates under the umbrella of Domaines N & M de Lorgeril, shows that refreshing whites can come from the sun baked south of France. This 50/50 blend of Grenache Blanc and Macabeu delivers an enlivening combination of delicate stone fruitiness and spice all supported by a firm spine of acidity. … Read more
Maison Albert Bichot, Petit Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2022
($26, Albert Bichot USA): 
In my mind, Petit Chablis is a misnomer because “petit” somehow diminishes the wine. Petit Chablis comes from Chardonnay planted in a different kind of limestone compared to those labeled Chablis, imparting more fruitiness and less minerality. … Read more
Bells Up Winery, Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir “Maestro” Estate Reserve 2021
($56): 
The delicate, 13.3 percent stated alcohol, Maestro, named to honor John Williams, combines the pure, red fruit of the winery’s Titan bottling with a mild touch of minerals seen in the Candide offering. It displays the same purity and verve as the other Bells Up Pinot Noirs. … Read more
Bells Up Winery, Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir “Candide” Estate Reserve 2021
($56): 
Named for Leonard Bernstein’s operetta, Candide, this mid-weight, 13.6 percent stated-alcohol, Pinot Noir delivers bright red crunchy fruit with more than a delightful hint of accenting spicy savory notes. Lip smacking acidity keeps it fresh. It grows in the glass so don’t rush it. … Read more
Bells Up Winery, Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate “Jupiter” 2021
($50): 
Dave Spector, the owner of Bells Up gives all of their wines musical references because he was a French horn player for decades. Despite a similar stated alcohol to Candide,13.5 percent, the Jupiter (think Mozart’s Symphony #41) bottling is weightier, displaying rich, black fruit notes intertwined with a charming minerality. … Read more
Diebolt-Vallois, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV
($40): 
It is unusual to find a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Champagne, especially at this price, since most of the single Chardonnay cépage wine goes into vintage or super premium bottlings. The Diebolt-Vallois delivers all the grace and precision you would expect from a Blanc de Blancs coupled with substantial body, making a good choice to bring to the table after you have a glass — or two — as an aperitif.… Read more
Benjamin Leroux, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2020
($38): 
In just a few years, Benjamin Leroux has become one of the star young producers in Burgundy. And with good reason. His wines are precise with good weight, which describes this Aligoté. The ripeness of the vintage marries beautifully with the cutting edginess inherent to the Aligoté grape. … Read more
Bells Up Winery, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Blanc “Rhapsody” 2023
($38): 
Who knew, great Pinot Blanc from Oregon? By now, everyone knows that Oregon makes gorgeous Pinot Noir. But Pinot Blanc? This one, from Bells Up winery in the Willamette leads with aromatics of white flowers and follows with surprisingly good weight for Pinot Blanc, without being overdone. … Read more
Bells Up Winery, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Titan” 2021
($46): 
Bells Up makes a wide range of excellent Pinot Noir releases that differ stylistically yet maintain a family characteristic — purity. All of them are named after musical references because Dave Specter, the owner, played the French horn for more than two decades. … Read more
Sébastien Girost, Champagne (France) Pur Meunier “Dure Peine” Brut NV
($52, Ideal Wine & Spirits): 
Located in the town of Congy in Coteaux du Morin, just south of the Côtes des Blancs, Sébastien Girost is located in an obscure area of Champagne. This release, made entirely from Pinot Meunier from a single vineyard, Dure Peine, planted in 1929, is, in a word — captivating. … Read more
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Charmelottes Vieilles Vignes “1939” 2020
($80): 
Unlike the rest of Burgundy, the 1er Cru classification in Montagny has little significance since a whopping 58 percent of vineyards are classified as such. In any case, this Montagny is outstanding, perhaps the best I have ever had. It shows what old vines in the hands of a detailed-oriented and talented producer can achieve. … Read more
Domaine Louis Michel et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Montée de Tonnerre 2022
($49): 
Domaine Louis Michel, one of my favorite Chablis producers, has put out a masterful array of wines in 2022, at prices that are quite reasonable, especially given the current Burgundy market. Michel has been a longtime (since the 1960s) advocate of eschewing wood barrels for either fermentation or aging. … Read more
Castell’in Villa, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2017
($76, Oz Wine Company): 
Do not be put off by the vintage — not a great one for Chianti Classico — nor the late release, which is the current one for this top producer. Their Riserva, made entirely from Sangiovese, comes from their best vineyards and spends two to three years in barrel aging prior to bottling. … Read more
Orsoladi, Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “La Rustìa” 2021
($30): 
It pays to listen to sommeliers who know their stuff. Jan Novak, the sommelier at Il Capriccio, a top Italian restaurant in Waltham, a Boston suburb, recommended this wine to me. It was unfamiliar to me, but her judgment is impeccable… so I ordered it. … Read more
Domaine Louis Michel et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2020
($56, Vineyard Brands): 
Louis Michel’s floral Vaillons couldn’t be more different from their weightier Butteaux. Yet, they are both superb. That’s the beauty of Burgundy in general and Chablis in particular. The same grape, Chardonnay in this case, grown on neighboring hills, produces vastly different, but equally enjoyable, wines. … Read more
Domaine Louis Michel et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Butteaux 2020
($56, Vineyard Brands): 
Louis Michel, one of Chablis’ top producers, eschews oak fermentation or aging for their Chablis, insisting that the use of stainless steel allows the magical combination of Chardonnay grape grown on Kimmerigdian limestone soil to shine. And shine it does with their 2020s. … Read more
Château Malartic Lagravière, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) “Le Comte de Malartic” 2019
($38): 
Château Malartic Lagravière, one of only six properties in Pessac-Léognan to be honored for both their reds and their whites in the 1953 Crus Classés des Graves classification, makes an array of stylish wines. Take this one, Le Comte de Malartic, the second white wine of the estate, for example. … Read more
Nuraghe Crabioni, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Carbioni” 2022
($19, Vias Imports): 
Vermentino is a go-to grape/wine when you yearn for a reasonably priced accompaniment for seafood. That is not to say there are no great upper-end renditions of Vermentino — there are — but there are also many more affordable releases that will introduce tasters to the charms of this grape/wine. … Read more
Giacomo Fenocchio, Barbera d’Alba Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) 2022
($28, Skurnik Wines): 
Every time I drink Barbera, I thank my friend (and sadly recently deceased) Ed McCarthy. Ed, of course, was known as “Mr. Champagne” but he also had forgotten more about Italian wine than I know. And he wisely championed Barbera, and in the process, converted me to its charms. … Read more
Paolo Conterno, Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) La Ginestra 2019
($25, Skurnik Wines): 
Barbera has an enormous quality range from insipid to fabulous, which can make choosing one a mine field. Yet, it is my “go-to” red at Italian restaurants because ones on a wine list should be high quality since the wine buyer for the restaurant has a wide selection from wholesale sources from which to choose. … Read more
Goisot, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2022
($23): 
Aligoté is Burgundy’s “other” white grape and it’s the only time a Burgundy appellation wine carries the grape name on the label. The grapes can come from anywhere throughout Burgundy, but in Goisot’s case, they come from around their estate in the Côtes de Auxerre, in northern Burgundy, near Chablis. … Read more
Gaspard, Vin de France (France) Sauvignon Blanc 2022
($19, Jenny & Françoise Selections): 
Wines carrying the Vin de France appellation can be either wonderful or awful because they need not obey any rules. The winemaker decides everything — not the appellation authorities. Some of France’s greatest maverick winemakers have turned out sensational wines using their own quirky philosophy. … Read more
Paradise Springs, Virginia (United States) Petit Manseng 2022
($37): 
Petit Manseng is not a well-known grape. Although frequently used for making sweet wines in the southwest of France, it is capable, as this wine shows brilliantly, of making stellar dry wines. Jancis Robinson, the noted British wine authority, notes its high acidity makes it well-suited for the heat of Virginia, where it has been planted since 2010. … Read more
Barboursville Vineyards, Virginia (United States) “Paxxito” 2019
($40): 
Barboursville, the first established modern winery in Virginia, remains a — perhaps THE — leading producer in that state. This wine shows why! It is a glorious, sweet wine, integrating apricot skin flavors with depth, a rich honey-like body, and most importantly, riveting acidity that holds it all together. … Read more
Breaux Vineyards, Virginia (United States) Nebbiolo Reserve “The Fog” 2019
($72): 
The wine is appropriately named The Fog since nebbia, from which Nebbiolo takes its name, is Italian for fog. This fabulous expression of Nebbiolo speaks for itself so the heavy bottle with the cumbersome wax/rubber overlay to the cork is unnecessary. … Read more