Marchesi Frescobaldi Castello Pomino, Pomino Bianco Riserva DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Benefizio” 2022 ($45, Vintus)

Cosimo de’ Medici included Pomino, along with what is now Chianti Classico, Carmignano, and Val d’Arno di Sopra, in his 1716 edict defining areas capable of producing outstanding wine. Whether Chardonnay was planted in Pomino at that time is not known. Frescobaldi notes that an ancestor planted it in Pomino in 1855. I, for one, am glad he did. The 2022 Benefizio is a dazzling expression of that grape, combining a subtle touch of richness with minerality and uplifting acidity that amplifies its charms and stature. Delicious now, it is a bargain for the enjoyment it delivers.
95 Michael Apstein – April 30, 2025