Capezzana opts to hold back several thousands of bottles that they then release at a decade of age because they know that Carmignano, and not even the Riserva, needs plenty of time to show its complexity. Of course, they’re correct. From a recent tasting of their Villa di Capezzana that showed wines back to their first vintage, the 1925, it was abundantly clear that Carmignano, like other great wines, needs time to develop and show their stuff. At that tasting, the 1985 and 1975 Villa di Capezzana, at 40 and 50 years, respectively, were magnificent, showing the value of letting these great wines develop in the bottle. This one, the 2015, at a decade of age, displays a hint of brick-like color at the edge appropriate for its age, but is still youthful. Engaging, delicate balsamic hints capture your attention. The focus has shifted from the fruitiness of youth to the savory complexity of properly aged fine wine. Still structured, the fine tannic underpinning will cut the richness of game or beef. But mind you, there’s no rush here. The 2015 Villa di Capezzana has miles to go before it sleeps. But it is hard to resist now!
95 Michael Apstein – Mar 12, 2025