Rosso di Montalcino is a terrific introduction to the more prestigious and age-worthy “big brother” category of Brunello di Montalcino. Although Rosso is made from the same grape—Sangiovese—and similar terroir—vineyards in and around Montalcino—the wine is more approachable in its youth than its more respected elder. The producer can use grapes from vineyards are that designated for Brunello but that don’t make the cut for Brunello, or grapes can come from less exalted land. In either case, it’s the producer’s name that carries the day. And Capanna is one of the best. Their 2022 Rosso delivers the dark minerality and dark cherry-like fruit of Brunello wrapped in fine tannins that impart a suave texture. What it lacks in complexity it makes up for with sheer immediate enjoyment. Try it this winter with hearty pasts or grilled meat.
93 Michael Apstein – Jan 22, 2025