Labeling aside, do not miss this wine. The Domaine de Saint Cosme is a top producer of red wine, especially their extraordinary Gigondas releases from the village where they are based. They are less well-known for white wines, though Les Deux Albion, may change that. Les Deux Albion, from the Latin “albus” might imply two white grapes make up the blend. Not so. It is a blend of seven white varieties, including Saint-Côme, a variety so rare it’s not even listed in Robinson’s encyclopedic Wine Grapes (Harper Collins 2012) that describes 1,368 varieties. Along with the unusual blend—Viognier, Marsanne and Picpoul comprise 80 percent—is the equally obscure legal appellation, Principauté D’Orange, with the IGP of Vaucluse. The opaque verbiage on the label should not be off-putting because the wine is stunning. This vibrant white delivers the subtle stone-fruit qualities characteristic of southern Rhône whites enhanced by a an uncommon and striking minerality that presumably comes from the limestone rich soil the Barruol family, owners of Domaine de Saint Cosme, have found. Riveting acidity keeps it fresh and amplifies its charms.
93 Michael Apstein