($95):  The Own-Rooted bottling comprises grapes from sites in the Willamette, all of which contain vines more than 30 years old, including some grapes from their own Bishops Creek Vineyard.  Grapes from Hyland Vineyard in the McMinnville AVA and from Nysa Vineyard in the Dundee Hills round out the blend.  Conventional wisdom holds that old vines produce superior quality grapes, which may explain why this wine is so stunning.  Although less weighty than their Nysa Vineyard bottling, it has a more commanding presence.  Delicate and long, it is captivating with a mixture of red and black fruits intertwined with engaging earthy or savory elements.  It dances on the palate and makes you wonder how so much flavor comes with so little weight.  Great cranberry-like acidity in the finish amplifies its charms. Weighing in at a 13.5 percent stated alcohol, it’s a reminder that you don’t need super-ripe grapes to make great wine.
97 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2024