My friends say that I hate rosé.  I don’t.  I just think there are many far more interesting alternatives.  (Here, we’re talking about still wine, not rosé Champagne, which is heavenly.)  Most rosé is innocuous.  “I’ll have a glass of rosé,” has replaced “I’ll have a glass of Chardonnay” as shorthand for “I want a glass of wine—I don’t need to know anything else about it.”  That’s its problem for me.  When I drink wine, I want complexity.  I want a little intrigue or surprise.  I want to think about what I’m putting in my mouth.  Sure, I want a zippy wine that refreshes, especially in the heat of summer.  Chilling light reds and many vibrant whites provide both refreshment and character, something I find lacking in most rosé wines.  So, having just spent 10-days on a family vacation in Provence where we drank not a drop of rosé, allows me to offer alternatives to enjoy this summer.  All of them are refreshing and bright.  None are heavy or ponderous.

My suggestions below can serve as aperitif-type wines that can be enjoyed by themselves but have enough pizzaz to stand up to and cut through even hearty summertime fare.

Let’s start with the whites.

In my decades of drinking white wine, there has been no bigger change in character—for the better—than the white wines from the Rhône Valley.  They’ve become far livelier.  Certainly, that’s true for wines from the well-known Côtes du Rhône appellation.  But that’s also true for two appellations that often fly under readers’ radar, the Luberon and the Ventoux, that are included under the Rhône Valley umbrella, despite being located geographically in Provence.  In addition, look for whites from Costières de Nîmes and the relatively new appellation, Duché d’Uzès.

Unexpectedly, given climate change, the white wines from these Rhône appellations have gotten brighter and fresher, aspects that balance their alluring stone fruit and aromatic nuances.  I don’t know whether producers have modified their blends, slightly increasing the proportion of varieties that contribute acidity or whether in response to warming climate they are harvesting earlier, which is another way to preserve acidity.  Or maybe something else is at work.  In any case, look for wines from these appellations for summertime drinking.

The blend of grapes that may be included in these Rhône Valley wines can be staggering—this is not a one-horse show—and helps explain the allure of the wines.  I’ve listed the blends in the wines I single out below, so that readers can appreciate the diversity of grapes that growers use.  And note how many come from organic grapes or vineyards that are farmed biodynamically, a real trend in the Rhône.

Additionally, for those who want to drink interesting wines this summer without breaking the bank (and who among us doesn’t?) look to the Rhône Valley.  None of the recommended wines should cost more than $25 retail.

As you’ll see, some of the wines I’ve recommended are not yet be available in the U.S.  In those instances, I’ve listed what winesearcher.com calls a “worldwide” price just to give consumers an idea of what the wines might cost in the U.S.  Even those that are imported may not be in national distribution, so they may be available only in limited markets.  If you cannot find these wines, search WRO’s database by appellation for other recommendations, or ask your retailer for other wines from these appellations.

There’s a trio of appellations—Côte du Rhône, Côtes du Rhone-Villages, and Côtes du Rhône-Villages appended with a named village—that offer particularly good value.  There are about 20 villages, two of which are Visan and Saint Maurice, that have the potential of making more distinctive wines.  They are entitled to link their name to the Côtes du Rhone-Villages appellation.  Over time, some of these villages will be “promoted” to Cru status on a level with Gigondas, Vacqueryas, and Châteauneuf du Pape, as authorities realize the elevated quality of the wines.  That means that many of them, such as Domaine La Florane’s Visan or their Saint Maurice, punch above their weight class already.  The really good news is that the price of these wines has not caught up with their quality—yet.

Domaine La Florane’s energetic 2023 Côtes du Rhône-Villages Visan “À Fleur” is a perfect example.  This mid-weight lively white—a blend of biodynamically-farmed Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier, Bourboulenc, Picpoul and Clairette—refreshes as a stand-alone aperitif while having sufficient oomph to cut through hearty Mediterranean fare on the table.  A delicate and alluring hint of bitterness in the finish reinforces its stature.  (94 points, $19 for the 2022)

The vibrant 2023 white Côtes du Rhône “La Solitude” from Famille Lançon, who makes delicious and noteworthy Châteauneuf du Pape, delivers subtle stone fruit richness buttressed by wonderfully refreshing acidity.  It has good weight without being heavy.  A blend of Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, and Clairette (93 pts., $18)

Though most wines labeled Côtes du Rhône hail from the southern part of the Rhône Valley, some, such as one from Stephane Ogier, a top Côte Rôtie producer, can come from the northern part of the Valley, near his Côte Rôtie base.  Ogier’s vibrant white 2022 “Le Temps est Venu” delivers minerals, a hint of stone fruit flavors, and riveting acidity.  (93 pts., NA in U.S., Worldwide price $12)

I couldn’t believe the price of the bright and fresh 2022 Mas des Bressades’ “Tradition” bottling from the Costières de Nîmes, a small appellation on the west side of the Rhône River.  The blend of the usual suspects—Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, and Viognier—delivers unusual depth, impeccably balanced, by uplifting vibrancy.  Stock up! (93 pts., $13)

The Duché d’Uzès appellation, barely a decade old, also lies on the western bank of the Rhône, about an hour west of Avignon.  It mandates the usual array of Mediterranean grapes for its reds and whites.  Organically grown Viognier and Grenache Blanc imbue the floral and fresh 2021 Domaine Deleuze-Rochetin’s “Harmattan” with impeccable balance.  It delivers depth without heaviness.  (91 pts., NA in U.S., Worldwide price $13)

Domaine de la Citadelle’s 2021 lively white, “Les Arètems,” from the Luberon and made with organic grapes, delivers nuances of stone fruit while remaining fresh and zippy even with a few years of age under its belt.  A blend of Clairette, Rolle, Roussane, and Marsanne.  (90 pts., NA in U.S., Worldwide price $17)

Domaine de la Pousterle’s charming 2020 “Cuvée Isabelle” from the Luberon uses Grenache Blanc and Vermentino (a.k.a. Rolle) from their oldest vines to make a racy white with delicate stone fruit character amplified by an uplifting hint of bitter almonds in finish.  (90 pts., $24)

Now, on to the reds.

Do not overlook light red wines for summer’s drinking pleasure.  Many red wines should not be fully chilled because lowering the temperature can accentuate the tannins, making them bitter.  So, for summertime drinking, avoid the sturdy Syrah-based wines from the north, such as Hermitage and Côte Rôtie.  Save those for the chill of fall or the snows of winter.  Embrace chillable reds, those with mild or no tannins, which is precisely why reds sporting the Côtes du Rhône appellation fit the bill.  Herbal notes complement their fruitiness without a dense tannic structure.  Good acidity keeps them fresh and lively.  In a word, they’re perfect for chilling this summer to accompany most anything coming off the grill.

Domaine de la Mordorée, a fully organic and biodynamically farmed estate located in Lirac (another appellation on the Rhône’s western bank) makes a fabulous array of wines.  Their splendid and racy Côtes du Rhône 2021, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault, is a delight to drink now.  Fresh and spicy, it has a healthy dose of what I like to call, “not just fruit” character that actually amplifies its fresh strawberry-like flavors.  (94 pts., $23)

I was so taken with Domaine La Florane’s white Côte du Rhône-Villages Visan (above) that I ordered their wines whenever I saw them on a wine list.  Domaine La Florane’s mid-weight 2022 Côte du Rhône-Villages Saint Maurice is a good choice for chilling because of its mild tannic structure, even though as a named village higher on the hierarchy of appellations.  Though slightly more substantial than those labeled simply Côtes du Rhône, its marvelous balance of red fruit and spice without a trace of heaviness makes it easy to love.  It would be an excellent match for grilled leg of lamb or other hearty grilled meats this summer.  (93 pts., $25)

It should come as no surprise that Chapoutier, a leading and top producer in the Rhône Valley, makes a delicious Côtes du Rhône, labeled “Belleruche.”  The supple and chillable 2021 charms you immediately with the right balance of bright red fruit and pepper-like spice.  (91pts., $16)

I am very familiar with the fine wines from Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, a small cooperative (10 members at last count) because we rented a house a stone’s throw from their winery for many summers.  Their buoyant 2022 Côtes du Rhône, bottled under their Tarapas label, is a delight slightly chilled.  A spicy blend of organically grown Grenache, Syrah, Carignan makes it the perfect “pizza wine.” (91 pts., $20)

Domaine La Florane’s lively 2022 Côtes du Rhône “À Fleur” 2022, a light red blend of usual Rhône red grapes—Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Carignan—farmed biodynamically, marries bright brambly fruit and mild tannins.  Slightly chilled, it’s a perfect choice for this summer’s BBQs.  (90 pts., $20)

Another fine cooperative, Vignerons Laudun Chuslan, bottles an attractive Côtes du Rhône labeled “Enfant Terrible.”  With its mild tannins, the bright and zesty 2022 is great chilled.  Its price will make many friends.  (88 pts., $14)

Expand your summer drinking habits.  Trust me, any of these will be more satisfying than most rosés.

E-mail me at [email protected] and tell me what wines you drink in the summer.  Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein

July 17, 2024