($21): The Rhône Valley provides a treasure trove of reasonably priced reds and whites, especially from the appellations with a lesser pedigree compared to the famed ones, such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Hermitage. There is a trio of appellations, Côte du Rhône, Côtes du Rhone-Villages, and Côtes du Rhône-Villages with a named village appended, such as Saint Maurice, that offer particularly good value. There are about 20 villages that have the potential of making more distinctive wines that are entitled to link their name to the Côtes du Rhone-Villages appellation. Over time, some of these villages will be “promoted” to Cru status on a level with Gigondas, Vacqueryas, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, as authorities realize the elevated quality of the wines. That means that many of them, such as this one from Saint Maurice, hit above their weight class now. The really good news is that the price of these wines has not caught up with their quality — yet. Domaine La Florane’s Saint Maurice, a mid-weight red, is ready to drink because of bright brambly fruit and mild tannins, making it a perfect choice for this summer’s BBQs. It is also fine slightly chilled.
91 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2024