($18): Rùfina, the smallest of the Chianti subzones, is mountainous and wild. The wines, like this one, have an appealing wildness and refinement. Frescobaldi, Rùfina’s largest and most important producer, never falters, which means that this 2020 delivers more than its price suggests. Herbal nuances and spice act as condiments to it deep cherry-like fruit. Tuscan acidity keeps it fresh and lively. Fine tannins impart suaveness that makes even this relatively young Riserva a joy to drink now with hearty pasta dishes or even burgers.
90 Michael Apstein Feb 27, 2024