($50):  This delightful wine shows that value in Burgundy is alive and well.  Owned by the Devillard family, the Château de Chamirey is one of, if not THE, leading estates in Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise, just south of the Côte d’Or.  Just as with wines from that famed strip of land, red wines from Mercurey must be made with Pinot Noir.  This venerable estate covers almost 100 acres, of which roughly 40 percent are classified as premier cru.  The just under 6.5-acres Clos des Ruelles Premier cru is a monopole, that is, Château de Chamirey owns it entirely in contrast to most vineyards in Burgundy, which are divided among multiple owners.  The vineyard is composed of two pieces with slightly different exposures, which adds to the wine’s complexity.  Even the youngest vines are 40+ years old.  The combination of the old vines, complexity of the vineyard, stature of the vintage, and the talent of the producer explains the wonder of this mid-weight wine.  Suave and seductive, this energetic wine wows with its depth and persistence, not brute force.  Delicious now, its balance and stature suggest it will continue to develop over the next decade.  Why it is still available at retail for this price is inexplicable to me.
94 Michael Apstein Aug 29, 2023