($26, Kobrand): In a word, delicious! And an extraordinary value. You rarely see Burgundy of this quality at this price. Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, takes advantage of a relatively new appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, which means all the grapes came from the famed Côte d’Or part of Burgundy, rather than the region’s less prestigious subzones. One sip explains why the Côte d’Or is so revered. With plenty of dark red fruit but enough savory balance creating an alluring ying/yang, this mid-weight wine shouts authentic Burgundy in contrast to the all too many New World fruit-focused Pinot Noir. Bracing uplifting acidity keeps it fresh. The long and graceful finish is astounding for a “simple” Bourgogne. This wonderful Bourgogne shows that value exists in Burgundy today. Though ready to drink now — the tannins are finely polished — I bet even with this lowly pedigree it will evolve nicely over the next five years. I usually don’t focus on the packaging — I am more interested in what’s in the bottle — but this is a startlingly unconventional and modern label for Jadot, a traditional producer. My editor, no doubt, will shudder at a 93-point score for a Bourgogne Rouge, but it deserves high praise for what it delivers for the price. My advice, buy it by the case.
93 Michael Apstein Aug 22, 2023