($15): Laudun is an unusual Côte du Rhône Village because it produces a hefty amount of appealing white wines, like this one from the local co-operative. A versatile wine, this lively mid-weight beauty delivers a hint of white peaches without any heaviness so it would work well as a stand-alone aperitif. It has sufficient racy edginess to hold up against sushi, or even chicken in a cream sauce. A delightful touch of alluring bitterness in the finish reminds you it is not overly fruity, which makes it perfect on the dinner table.
91 Michael Apstein May 30, 2023