($94, Soilair Selection): Podere Sapaio, founded in 1999, is making itself known among the Super Tuscan with their flagship wine, Sapaio. A blend of organically grown Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Petit Verdot (20%) and Cabernet Franc, the stylish Sapaio impresses with a plush, velvety texture that shouts, “I’m important.” And it is. A hint of smoke and tar brilliantly offset its balanced array of red and dark fruit. But it’s the glossy texture that’s impressive at this stage since the flavors need time to blossom. The tannins remain suave regardless of how long they remain on the palate. Bright Tuscan acidity in the finish — recalling sour red cherries — amplify its appeal. Even considering its 14.5 percent stated alcohol, it is not dense, heavy nor over ripe. Fine to drink now because of that glossiness, I suspect this wine will evolve beautifully with a decade or so of bottle age because of its elegance and balance.
93 Michael Apstein May 30, 2023