($16):  Verdicchio di Matelica, the smaller and lesser known than Verdicchio di Castelli Jesi, is landlocked, unlike its more famous sibling.  Despite its location, paradoxically, its wines have a more marine influence because this valley in the Apennine mountains was underwater in ancient times.  Its marine origins explain the silt sediment and limestone, a perfect setting for fine wine.  Typically, wines from Verdicchio di Matelica are more angular than the rounder ones from Verdicchio di Castelli Jesi, which make them an ideal match for summer seafood.  Collestefano, one of the top producers in Verdicchio di Matelica, makes consistently fine wines that improve with bottle age.  This 2022 is firm with a delicate yet persistent saline-like minerality.  Lovely to drink now, it should develop beautifully over the next several years.  So, you can buy this bargain-priced white by the case and not worry if you don’t go through it this summer.  But you will.
92 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023