($28): Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust. Put this one in the latter category. Earthy notes support dark fruit character. Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness. It opens beautifully as it sits in the glass over a half hour so don’t rush it. A good choice for hearty fare this winter.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 7, 2023