($35, Vinifera):  Brigaldara, a family-owned estate since the early 20th century, is one of the leading lights in Valpolicella.  The make a stunning array of wines linked by a gracefulness that belies their power.  Take this Valpolicella Superiore.  It shows a mixture of red and black fruit flavors, but with a healthy dose of savory, non-fruity ones — spices and herbs — that add tremendous intrigue.  This mid-weight wine has more power that its sleek and elegant body suggests.  Cranberry-like acidity keeps it lively and fresh.  A silky texture makes it a good choice now as temperatures drop.
91 Michael Apstein Nov 8, 2022