($48):  The Pisoni family, who owns Lucia, is one the leading producers in the Santa Lucia Highlands, a ridge that runs southeast to northwest and allows cooling air and fog from Monterey Bay and the Pacific Ocean to cool the vineyards.  As the Pisoni wines show, it is an ideal place for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, two varieties that do best in cooler climes.  This one, made from a selection of grapes from three vineyards, Pisoni Vineyards, Soberanes Vineyards, and Garys’ Vineyard, is a delight, displaying elegance and verve that buttresses its ample fruitiness.