($45):  Amarone, by type, is a big wine because regulations require that it be made from partially dehydrated grapes.  Its power comes from the concentration of sugar, resulting in higher alcohol, acids and everything else that occurs as the grapes dry and shrivel.  Since all components of the grapes get concentrated, the well-made Amarone, such as this one and its stablemate, Mai Dire Mai, are balanced.  At five years of age, this one remains big and boisterous, yet balanced.  You barely notice 15 percent stated-alcohol.  Actually, the tannins are suave, making the wine, dare I say, elegant, hardly a word used with Amarone.  There’s an appealing hint of bitterness in the finish, which is appropriate since the name, Amarone, comes from amaro, Italian for bitter.  No doubt, this is a winter time wine.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 12, 2021