($18, Vinecrest Co): Made with organically grown grapes, this is a hearty and well-balanced blend of Cabernet Franc (31%), Syrah (26%) and Carmenere (22%), with the balance filled out by equal amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a powerhouse, to be sure, but thankfully it is not over the top. A healthy dose of earthy savory notes balances its bold black fruitiness. The lasting impression is not one of overt fruitiness, but rather earthy spice. It’s another good choice for hearty fare from the grill this summer. Sadly, this broad-shouldered wine is another example of good wine, bad — unnecessarily heavy — bottle.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 3, 2021