($18, Vino del Sol):  Full disclosure: I am underwhelmed by most Malbecs, which are heavy, monotonic red wines.  Imagine my surprise and delight with this one.  Perhaps it’s the 4,200 feet above sea level vineyard, which allows enormous sunlight without great heat.  Perhaps it’s the talent of the winemaking team.  Who knows, but this is a gorgeous wine at an equally gorgeous price.  This Malbec has the power you’d expect from the grape with elegance and complexity that grape rarely displays.  There are hints of smoke, of minerals, of savory nuances.  Refined tannins, which provide structure without astringency, account for its suave texture.  A graceful hint of bitterness in the finish reminds you it’s not just about fruitiness.
93 Michael Apstein May 18, 2021