($23, Quintessential Wines): Juliénas is one of the 10 crus, or named villages, of Beaujolais that labels the wine with the village name, omitting Beaujolais entirely. In addition to his “flower label” bottlings of Beaujolais, DuBoeuf produces or commercializes a bevy of notable ones, such as this one. Though his Château des Capitans focuses of the fruity aspect of Beaujolais, there’s plenty of spice and a briary element that complements the bright red fruit flavors. It displays terrific acidity, especially considering the warmth of the vintage, which keeps it fresh and lively. Mild tannins mean it will take a chill nicely without becoming astringent, making it a good choice for summer instead of an insipid rosé.
89 Michael Apstein May 18, 2021