($45, Taub Family Selections): Col d’Orcia, one of the largest producers of Brunello di Montalcino, has proven, time and time again, that quality and quantity can go together. They did it again with their positively stellar 2016 Brunello. The 2016 vintage is outstanding throughout Tuscany. Though 2015 was highly rated in Brunello and throughout Tuscany as well, my vote clearly goes to 2016 because the wines are much fresher, livelier and better balanced without losing any of the depth that the 2015s provided. The 2016 ranks among the best Brunello Col d’Orcia has produced. Beautifully proportioned, it has everything: grace, power, and freshness. And it unfolds as it sits in the glass so that the dark cherry-like fruitiness of Sangiovese and the deep mineral earthy component characteristic of Montalcino come together in a most wonderful way. Its stature sneaks up on you, which makes it all the more compelling. At the price, it is likely the best value to be found among the 2016 Brunelli. Some is already in my cellar.
98 Michael Apstein Mar 9, 2021