($48):   Lovely savory, olive-like notes balance the dark fruitiness of this big bold and broad Cabernet.  Fine tannins provide structure without being astringent or intrusive.  There’s a delightful hint of bitterness in the finish to emphasize this is not a “fruit bomb.”  The heavy bottle detracts.  Their website notes their “strong commitment to protecting our planet.” and carries certifications to prove their commitment to the environment.  Why then the heavy bottle, which environmentalists decry as being energy wasteful?  At 680 grams, it’s 20 percent heavier than an empty bottle of 1982 Mouton Rothschild, a wine that does not need a weighty bottle to announce its grandeur.
94 Michael Apstein Mar 2, 2021