($45):  Gary Farrell is a winery known for brilliant single vineyard Pinot Noirs, which show that terroir is alive and well in California.  This one, however, is a blend to represent the Russian River Valley in general — and it does.  Floral, with a bright, ripe fruit profile, it’s encased in mild tannins and finishes slightly sweet from ripeness, as indicated by the 13.9 percent-stated alcohol.  It’s suave and supple texture makes it ideal for current consumption with something like grilled salmon.  A hint of savory nuances, trying to balance its primary fruit focus, adds to its appeal.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 2, 2021