($30, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  Cerasuolo di Vittoria, located in southeastern Sicily, is that island’s only DOCG wine.  Regulations require that Nero d’Avola comprise at least 50, but no more than 70, percent of the blend.  Frappato fills out the blend.  Donnafugata, of course, is one of the locomotives that has advanced the reputation of Sicily’s wines over the decades.  So, it’s comes as no surprise that they make an exceptional Cerasuolo di Vittoria.  It delivers a balanced bundle of floral elements, spice, and, as the name suggests, cherry-like flavors (Cerasuolo means “cherry-like”).  This mid-weight wine dances on the palate. Mild tannins lend support and backbone.  With its bright acidity and low (13 percent stated) alcohol, you’d never guess it comes from what is generally assumed to be a hot climate.  Not all of Sicily is roasting, as this wine, and many other Sicilian wines, demonstrates.  Donnafugata’s Cerasuolo di Vittoria is lacy and delicate, but paradoxically, leaves a big impression.  Drink it with a tomato-based fish stew or pasta.  It’s also fine when you’re grilling a hearty fish, such as salmon or bluefish.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 26, 2021