($140, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Vosne-Romanée could be considered the most revered village in Burgundy. Its wines, even those sporting just a village appellation, carry hefty price tags. And with the 25 percent tariffs, the prices are truly extraordinary. That said, this is a pretty extraordinary wine. In the 15 years that Nicole Lamarche has been in charge of the winemaking, the quality of the wines has sky-rocketed. Les Chaumes vineyard sits in the middle of the village, abutting La Tâche in one corner. Lamarche’s 2018 Les Chaumes is dazzling with its sublime finesse. Delicate fruitiness and alluring spice, especially in the finish, is mesmerizing. A racy wine with plenty of energy, its allure resides in its elegance. There no shouting here. It captivates you by sneaking up on you. An archetypal Burgundy, it displays flavor without weight leaving you with a sense of…wow, where did that come from?
95 Michael Apstein Jan 26, 2021