($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Bart, one of my favorite producers, flies under the radar. Even their stunning Bonnes Mares fails to get the accolades it deserves. They are best known for their array of reds from Marsannay, a village whose wines may lack cachet, but in the right hands deliver spectacular quality at an easy-on-the wallet price. And Bart is certainly one of the “right hands.” They also make a little Marsannay white, from, in this case, a strain of Chardonnay called Musqué, which has an attractive, subtle Muscat-like perfume. Bart’s 2018 has that floral quality that enhances its hint of fruity creaminess. It has lovely almost pineapple-like chunky quality to it. Good acidity amplifies its charms. This white wine, a rarity from the red-predominant Côte de Nuits is perfect for drinking now.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2020