($65):  Gran Selezione is a relatively new category of Chianti Classico.  It sits at the pinnacle of the quality pyramid, above Riserva.  Regulations require, among other things, that the grapes come entirely from the producers’ vineyards — no purchased fruit is allowed — and that the wine must be aged for 30 months before release, compared to 24 months for Riserva.  Regulations aside, Gran Selezione should represent the producer’s best Chianti Classico.  In this case it does.  As much as I liked Cecchi’s Riserva di Famiglia, this Gran Selezione is just, in a word, better.  Not more powerful, it impresses with its elegance and glossy texture.  The tannins are very fine, almost inapparent, yet provide great structure. Its freshness and energy make it a joy to drink throughout the meal.  Just as Cecchi’s Riserva delivers charm and power, their Gran Selezione does so with suaveness and poise.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2020