($25, Taub Family Selections):  Col d’Orcia, best known for their stunning Brunello di Montalcino, makes other wines.  At first glance at the label, you might think this is their Rosso di Montalcino.  It’s not.  Also, don’t be put off by the 2014 vintage, which was, as the Italians themselves describe it, “difficult.”  Col d’Orcia, like other talented producers, still manages to do well in difficult years.  The Rosso Col d’Orcia is a blend of Sangiovese clones (60 percent), many of which were ancient and at risk of becoming extinct, with two other less common, but traditional, Tuscan grapes, Foglia Tonda (30 percent) and Bersaglina.  It’s a great mixture of fleshiness, minerality and herbal, savory elements supported by firm tannins.  It has the hallmark elegance of Col d’Orcia’s Brunello.
91 Michael Apstein Oct 27, 2020