($35, Beivuma Wines):  Beconcini, located in San Miniato, a small town halfway between Pisa and Florence, makes range of wines from a Chianti to this one, his top of the line.  Made entirely from organically-grown Sangiovese, it’s a beauty, probably, in part at least, because of the age of the vines.  According to their website, about one-third of the vines for this wine are 45 years old while the rest are 25 years of age.  A ying and yang of savory and cherry-like flavors dance on the palate.  Though it has good density and ripeness — the 2015 vintage speaking — it’s not heavy.  Classic Tuscan acidity keeps it lively and fresh.  A charming rusticity and a hint of bitterness in the finish speaks to its authenticity.  It would be an ideal choice tonight for grilled steak.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 21, 2020