This superb grower, based in Auxey-Duresses, used the flexible regulations of Coteaux Bourguignons to tweak its usual blend of consistently winsome Passe-tout-grains. The 2017 contains 70% Gamay and 30% Pinot Noir, both from slopes around the winery where the limestone-rich soil imparts even more acidity to the Gamay than the granitic soil of Beaujolais. The two varieties were vinified similarly: no cold soak, no carbonic maceration and little punchdown. The wine’s structure frames and supports its fresh and fruity raspberry-like character beautifully. Its Beaujolais-like charm, without sweetness, makes it a good match for steak-frites.