($40):  In 2010, Italian wine regulators created a new DOCG by adding a Riserva designation to the Verdicchio dei Castelli Jesi DOC for wines that have been aged slightly longer and have been made from riper grapes.  To emphasize the importance of place instead of the grape, the official name became Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG.  Though I doubt normal consumers will notice the placement of the grape name in the legal denomination, they should take notice of the Riserva designation because wines carrying that moniker are a cut above those labeled Verdicchio dei Castelli Jesi.  The Verdicchio grape, which means the “little green one,” is part of the Trebbiano family, is identical genetically to Trebbiano di Soave, and is considered to be one of Italy’s great white wine grapes, according to Ian D’Agata, a world’s expert on Italian wine.  Villa Bucci, a top producer in the region, transformed the grape into a superb, exciting mid-weight wine that combines a delicate fruitiness and a haunting minerality.  This is a sophisticated wine that will enhance the meal the next time you’re grilling fish.
95 Michael Apstein Feb 25, 2020