($20):  Gerovassiliou, who is credited with saving the Malagouzia grape from extinction, blends it with Assyrtiko to create this charming wine.  It is more floral than his monovarietal Malagouzia, which is surprising since one might assume that the Assyrtiko would add more structure and minerality.  But perhaps it’s because the Assyrtiko in this case comes from Macedonia, in the north of Greece, rather than its ancestral home on Santorini.  Outside of Santorini, Assyrtiko expresses far less saline minerality.  Perhaps it’s just a different expression of the Malagouzia.  Whatever the reason, it’s a winsome wine whose tropical notes are beautifully balanced and offset by energetic acidity.  In 2019, this is (paradoxically) even more floral and forward than his straight Malagousia.  Think of it as a friendly, early-drinking Assyrtiko.
90 Michael Apstein Jan 21, 2020