($17, Cava Spiliadis): Moschofilero, a grape indigenous to the Mantinia region of the Peloponnesus, produces a floral wine, reminiscent of Muscat, though far less fragrant. Its perfumed nature might make you think it’s sweet. Anything but. This one, from Tselepos, a top producer, is firm, with bracing acidity. Though it will cut through as hearty a dish as roast lamb, a better match would be Mediterranean seafood.
89 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2019