($15, Romano Brands): Pecorino is, of course, a cheese. But it turns out to also be a grape and a wine. An attractive bite is what the cheese and the wine have in common. Cerulli Spinozzi, one of the top producers in Abruzzo, a region due east of Rome on the Adriatic, has consistently made a winsome Pecorino. With a pleasant white pepper-like bite, their 2106 leads with a floral hint and finishes with an invigorating saline stoniness. Lively and refreshing, it cuts through delicately fried foods and also holds its own against full-flavored pasta. At $15 a bottle, it’s a steal.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 19, 2019