($20): The cutesy label and name (two roosters) represent the two brothers, Bernardo and Umberto Valle, who have crafted this engaging mid-weight red. Morellino di Scansano, which carries DOCG designation, Italy’s highest ranking, is an area in the Maremma in southwestern Tuscany, the primary grape of which is Sangiovese. One of the virtues of this uncomplicated wine is that it’s not trying to be something it’s not. The bright, clean, cherry-like flavors of Sangiovese sing. Though a “simple” wine, it is beautiful in its direct and pleasing simplicity. Great juicy acidity keeps it lively throughout the meal. Mild tannins meant it could be chilled, which made it even more lively and refreshing, when I had it on a warm night in Rome. A versatile wine, it went well with creamy burrata, hearty pasta, and even lamb chops. But given the label, I suppose it would be a great way to enhance a weeknight take-out rotisserie chicken.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2019