($20, Winebow):  The Vermentino grape produces the best wine when, as the saying goes, its vines “can see the sea,” which is why it is an important grape on the island of Sardinia.   Argiolas, a family-run winery dating to 1938, selects its oldest vines for Is Argiolas.   The grapes are harvested relatively late, when fully ripe, which makes this a different style of Vermentino (from some Tuscan counterparts, for example) and explains why there are almost tropical fruit notes in this wine.   This is a less nervy style of Vermentino, but good acidity still keeps it fresh.  A subtle creaminess adds to its charms.  Unsurprisingly, it’s an excellent choice for simple seafood.
88 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2019