($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons):  Gewürztraminer, with its overtly spicy and floral components, is a wine people either love or hate.  Although I’m in the “love” category, I still find it frustrating because of the unknown level of sweetness it conveys, from steely dry to rather sweet.  The solution is to remember a few producers whose style you like.  Hugel ranks among the top on my list — for all their wines, not just Gewürztraminer.  With their Gewürztraminer, they manage to produce a dry, medium-bodied one with good density without perceptible sweetness.  It’s a good choice for spicy sushi, Indian or other Asian cuisine or with cheese.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 4, 2018