($305, Frederick Wildman and Sons):  Given the horrendous weather during the 2016 growing season in Burgundy, it’s amazing that growers made any wine at all.  Sadly, some did not since entire vineyards were wiped out by hail.  Many producers had written off vintage, prematurely, as it turned out.  One thing is clear, the horrible weather resulted in very low yields, which, of course, translates into high prices.  The other thing about the 2016 vintage that is clear is that it lacks the consistency of 2015.  What’s also clear is that many superb wines, such as Prieur’s Clos Vougeot, were made.  Clos Vougeot, one of Burgundy’s grandest Grand Cru vineyards, can also be a great source of disappointing wines.  Some parts of this large vineyard likely do not deserve Grand Cru status.  There are many producers of Clos Vougeot, some of whom figure that the name alone will sell the wine and therefore cut corners.  But Clos Vougeot can also be one of the grandest Burgundies.  Prieur’s fits that latter category.  Explosive, it weaves minerality and alluring floral elements into a near magical combination that lingers on the palate, seemingly forever.  Waves of flavor dance on the palate.  It delivers what I consider to be the quintessential nature of Burgundy — flavor without weight. The tannins are fine and barely noticeable they are so well integrated, but they lend perfect support.  The price is another reason to play the lottery.
96 Michael Apstein Jul 17, 2018