($25, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Aviron’s Moulin-à-Vent dazzles with a paradoxical firmness and fleshiness. The tannins are fine, not hard or astringent. You can almost taste the granitic soil of this cru in this tightly wound wine. Uplifting brightness in the finish amplifies its appeal. It takes time in the glass to blossom so either decant it before serving, or better yet, put it in the cellar for a few years and his wines from the other crus.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2018