($50): Cuvaison was one of the early wineries to discover the virtues of Carneros, one of the coolest areas of Napa Valley. They planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir there 40 years ago and have enormous experience with how those varieties fare there. This Adda Chardonnay shows the fruits — no pun intended — of their labors. Winemaker Steve Rogstad indicates that it is a barrel selection of their lowest yielding vines. If I had to guess, I would say the impeccable balance and complexity comes from old vines. It delivers a wonderful mixture of subtle creaminess buttressed by citrus verve. It reveals itself slowly. Nothing is in your face. It’s a masterful expression of Chardonnay.
95 Michael Apstein Feb 6, 2018